Family-owned Mexican Eatery Arrives in Mamaroneck

Benjamin Meza always dreamed of having his own restaurant, and when he first arrived in Westchester, he decided he wanted it to be in Mamaroneck. Multiple jobs and over two decades later, he and his family own and operate La Herradura, a Mexican eatery on Mamaroneck Avenue that opened in September 2009.

Originally from Michoacan, the Meza family moved to the U.S. over 20 years ago. Benjamin, Isidro and Fernando - three of five brothers - and their father began working in restaurants in California, a period that Isidro, the youngest, recalls as being particularly hard.    

"You can't imagine how difficult it was for us three to have to hand the dirty dishes to our father so he could wash them," said Benjamin during a recent visit to Herradura. The family split up when the brothers managed to save enough money to send his father back to Mexico so he could have a better life and run his own store.

The Mezas didn't come together again until a year and a half ago, when Benjamin and Fernando opened the restaurant in Mamaroneck, the last of three Herraduras (the other two are on Main Street and North Avenue in New Rochelle).

"Nobody thought he was going to be able to make it," said Isidro about Benjamin. But the hard work paid off. Today, the entire family runs the business, either making drinks, cooking, serving, or even taking care of the kids in the family.

"Our motto to make clients believe in us is being friendly, serving savory food fast, and taking care of the business ourselves," said Isidro. "We want our people to feel at home, to remember their roots, and we also want others to learn about our origins."

Herradura's menu is quite extensive, offering items I have yet to find in some of the big Mexican restaurants in New York City (molletes, chilaquiles, huaraches and chiles rellenos are a few examples).

The restaurant's décor is undoubtedly Mexican – Benjamin traveled around Mexico to find local arts and crafts – and almost too much to handle. There are ceramic tabletops, lamps, masks and figurines; wooden sculptures; murals; an enormous Aztec calendar; and several metal horseshoes, which translate to "herraduras," a symbol of good luck in Mexico. Oh, and don't forget to look up. The wooden ceiling is worth noting.

The margaritas and beer are 2 x 1 in January in honor of the restaurant's newly approved liquor license, so have a pair and let all the ornaments sink in as you listen to either the sizzling sound of your fajitas or classic Mexican tunes - Mana and Luis Miguel are big here.

*Note that you can order for delivery, but the ambience is not included.

If you want to try an authentic Mexican drink, order an agua de horchata or a batido de guanabana, and tell me what you think. The latter one is particularly difficult to find in the U.S.

The chips and salsa are pretty standard, but the guacamole is made freshly (they might even make it right before your eyes) and quite good. You can taste the lime and the cilantro, but you might have to ask for "mas picante" if you are a big chili eater.

The tortilla soup, a blend of shredded chicken, vegetables, chicken broth, crispy tortilla strips and avocado, is very tasty. The tamales, a sort of corn dough cake wrapped in corn leaves, and usually stuffed with shredded chicken and green, red or mole sauce, are surprisingly moist.

A Mexican tradition is to have a bite of a torta de tamal (a tamal sandwich, if you can envision something that heavy) and have a sip of atole, a cornstarch-based drink, to help the dough travel down. At Herradura, you won't need a swallowing aide. 

In any case, the tamales here come with cheese, which is unusual, so make sure you tell the waiter if you'd pass on the dairy. 

If you are craving beef, chicken, or seafood, they all come in every sauce imaginable, from your standard pico de gallo to garlic and wine to tequila sauce. But I would order the enchiladas de mole poblano, if you have never tried Mexico's famous chocolate-based sauce. They are a tad too sweet, but you'll find the chocolate aroma and the combination of soft corn tortillas, mole-soaked chicken, and a dash of white cheese and sour cream hard to resist.

Finally, this is the kind of place that is best when you go with a large group. You'll get to try different appetizers (in addition to the guacamole, of course) and share a few main dishes. I wouldn't even worry about leaving room for desert; that is where the enchiladas de mole kill two birds with one stone.  

Herradura is where the Japanese restaurant Abis used to be, on 406 Mamaroneck Avenue. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served daily. Tels. 914-630-2375, 914-630-2376. Fax: 914-630-2377.