La Riserva Takes You Places In Only One Visit

In restaurant years, La Riserva in Larchmont has met the test of time, and then some. And since only recently, a dramatic series of blown-up vintage photographs has transported visitors to the place where it all started decades ago: charming Southern Italy.

Chef Michael Vivolo and his wife Margaret's introduction of the black and white photographs to their dining room gives visitors a glimpse into what Michael's hometown, Accadia-Foggia, looked like in the first half of the 1900s. The images were found in the historic archives there and they create quite a stunning backdrop hanging on the walls of the restaurant. Accadia is a town and commune in the province of Foggia in the Apulia region of southeast Italy. The public is invited to come in and view them throughout the day. It's like entering a gallery.

While Michael came out of Accadia-Foggia, his partner Carlo Colaianni (now retired) came from Rome. Michael left Italy at age 16 to pursue his career and gleaned a great deal of European kitchen finesse from his early culinary training in Switzerland. He met his Margaret there, an Irish girl who was to become an integral part of the business, often seen co-hosting, refurbishing and decorating the restaurant.

Margaret's latest refurbishment has been that of the dining room: resplendent in lush new carpeting, window fixtures and artwork. Fresh colorful flowers adorn a corner of the bar, each table dressed in beige and white tablecloths. There are unique prints of Rome and environs, and oh, those big photographs. Three separate dining areas seat up to 100 guests, and the house can accommodate up to 60 guests for private parties and catered affairs of all types.

Special Hint: Right now, La Riserva is marking summer with a new menu and dining options. Tuesday evenings the house serves a prix fixe 3-course dinner for a reasonable $17.95 per person. The meals include soup of the day, crispy house salad, and choice of main course.  Every Friday evening there is a lobster special prepared in a variety of styles, with all the trimmings for $25 per person. There is also a 3-course luncheon served Monday thru Friday, a great deal at $11.95 per person.

Recent meals here included a colorful cold antipasti that was easily sharable. I have always enjoyed their hot version too. At one lunch the light grilled chicken salad was a delight. As a dinner pasta, their hearty green and red pappardelle with shrimp, artichoke hearts and goat cheese was a knockout. Fresh branzino mediterraneo prepared with white wine and herbs — a house specialty — was lovely surrounded with grape tomatoes, asparagus and capers. I had to have a portion of tiramisu and scoop of vanilla ice cream to end it off.

New specialties on the regular menu may include such seasonal fare as: insalata novella, with pears, gorgonzola and walnuts with a balsamic vinaigrette; stuffed cornish hen; lobster ravioli; broccoli rabe ravioli; pork chop Milanese, topped with arugula and tomato; and such fresh fish as tilapia, orata and grouper prepared with fresh vegetables and herbs.

Signature pastas include: a long time favorite here, angel hair abissi marini, thin egg noodles in a light cream sauce with shrimp and mushrooms; farfalle alla romana, with fresh tomato, mushrooms, chicken and asparagus; house made gnocchi di dolomiti, house made potato dumplings served in a brandy sauce with radicchio and sausage; linguine del mare, with mussels, clams, shrimp and calamari in a light marinara sauce or garlic and oil;  a fine version of house-made lasagna in a cream and meat sauce; and penne bella donna, whole wheat pasta with chicken, broccoli, ceci beans, garlic and oil. Half-order pastas are available.

La Riserva's signature dishes include: a hefty veal chop alla griglia, grilled with mushrooms and roasted potatoes;  pollo caprino, chicken paillard topped with sliced tomato and melted goat cheese; salmon altri tempi, with zucchini, sundried tomatoes, lemon, olive oil and white wine; and veal verbena, topped with asparagus and mozzarella cheese. For a real treat, try the potato casalinga, thin sliced home fried potatoes on the side.

A new luncheon menu now includes individual sized Margherita pizza, entree size salads and panini; and real good sole francese.

A relaxing Sunday brunch includes choice of beverage; a basket of fresh mixed breads; and such changing main courses as: frittata Joe Torre (the former Yankee skipper was a frequent diner here when he lived in Harrison); chicken tarragone with rice; and focaccia Umbria, with fresh mozzarella, roasted eggplant, tomato and arugula served with Caesar salad.

Customers old and new are greeted with genuine warmth here. Hosting duties are shared by Michael and Margaret Vivolo along with Ellie Cucino, a 30-year veteran of the restaurant. Son Dean Vivolo also caught the culinary fever early on, graduating the C.I.A. and operating his popular Trattoria Vivolo in Harrison out of a vintage diner for the past 7 years.

Even after 33 years, it is never too late to join the La Riserva family...

La Riserva Trattoria is located at 2382 Boston Post Rd., Larchmont. The restaurant is open for lunch Monday thru Friday, noon to 3 p.m. Main courses at lunch: $8.95 to $12.75. Dinner is served seven nights from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday thru Thursday; to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday. Main courses at dinner: $14.25 to $25.50. Sunday brunch served noon to 3 p.m. Catering facilities for up to 60 guests. Take out. Major credit cards. Free parking. Proper casual dress. Handicapped access. Reservations accepted. Phone: 914-834-5584. Fax: 914-833-0652. www.lariservarestaurant.com

Morris Gut has been tracking and writing about the food and dining scene in greater Westchester for over 25 years. He may be reached at: 914-235-6591. E-mail: gutreactions@optonline.net.