Pasquale and Francesco Coli of La Villetta

Jobs were scarce in post-World War II Italy when the ceramics plant in small, sunny Cutrofiano—the town in the Italian province of Lecce where Larchmont chef Pasquale Coli's dad worked—closed its doors.

Pasquale's father soon learned his expertise was being sought by the Swiss, and so he removed Pasquale, a fifth grader, from school to accompany him to Switzerland. Pasquale made bricks until he was 13, stopping when he secured a kitchen job at a Swiss restaurant in Basel named Paradise. He was a fast learner, and promotions were frequent during the next four years.

By the time he was 17, Pasquale wanted to leave the restaurant and attend Ente Nazionale Addestramento Lavoratori del Commercio (ENALC), one of the most prestigious culinary schools in Italy. But this didn't please his Swiss employer—he refused to give Pasquale the required letter of recommendation.

Impressed by his persistence, however, the school officials waived policy and Pasquale's application was approved. He ranked first in his class when he graduated.

Pasquale spent the next nine years as First Class Chef on Italian cruise ships—during this period, some of Pasquale's voyages lasted as long as six months.

At the age of 27, Pasquale left the cruise ships to open his own restaurant, naming it Michelangelo after one of the ships on which he had cooked. He still owns the building, but a while ago it was converted from an eatery to a cheese factory.

Following a successful two years as proprietor of Michelangelo, Pasquale was preparing to open a waterfront restaurant and bed & breakfast—given to him by his father—when he and his wife of two years decided to take a three-month vacation trip to the United States. While in New York City, he interviewed successfully and began to consider a change of plans: relocating from Puglia, Italy, to New York City.

Saluted for his 'versatility'

After relocating, Pasquale joined Captain's Table in Manhattan, where he quickly gained recognition and acclaim. In 1982, Pasquale—by then executive chef —was described as "the most versatile fish cook in New York City" by Jay Jacobs, a restaurant reviewer for Gourmet Magazine. 

In 1983, Pasquale opened a small trattoria in Mount Vernon where a restaurant called Venezia had once stood; the name remained on the empty structure, so he decided to use it. Pasquale commuted daily from the family home in Queens at first, but soon moved his wife and two young sons to Mount Vernon.

Pasquale also continued to work in New York City as executive chef at the trendy restaurant Primavera. He once again received acclaim from Gourmet Magazine in 1993, this time for his expertise in preparing fish and lobster. 

Soon afterward, however, Pasquale thought it was time to retire—and he might have stayed out of the kitchen had his son Francesco not chosen food for a career.

Francesco worked in restaurants during high school and college before graduating from Pace University in 1998 with a Bachelor of Arts degree. Following graduation, Francesco took a front-of-the-house position at Ocean Grill, a seafood restaurant in Manhattan. Francesco quickly advanced to general manager for Ocean Grill.

Pasquale, although retired, realized his 25-year-old son was serious about pursuing a career in the food business, so he offered to come out of retirement to help him start his own restaurant. They soon began searching for a suitable location.

La Villetta opens

For father and son, an empty building on Madison Avenue in Larchmont looked promising. It had previously housed a restaurant called La Villetta, opened in 1979. In July of 2000, Francesco leased the property, and renovation of the interior was completed in time for an October opening. It was decided to keep the name, which was prominently displayed on front.

Once the business was running smoothly, Francesco balanced managing the restaurant and commuting to classes at the French Culinary Institute in New York City.

The emphasis at La Villetta is on seafood. For the serious enthusiast, Pasquale recommends soft-shell crabs throughout the summer; monkfish with fava beans in the fall and wild striped bass in the late fall; North Atlantic halibut in the winter; Dover sole from Holland for most of the year; and Brazino (Mediterranean sea bass) year round. Maine lobster is not on the menu, but it is available with advance notice.

La Villetta patrons' favorites include Dover sole, bluefin tuna, pappardelle with wild boar ragu, grilled octopus, rigatoni and braised artichoke. Appetizer-size portions are available for many main courses on the menu. For example, ricotta gnocchi can be ordered for either $12 or $18.

And Pasquale hasn't lost his touch for versatility: depending on a customer's likes or dislikes, he'll customize their plate. 

The four-word secret to being successful in the restaurant business, which Francesco says he learned from his dad, is "great food, great service."

So what's next? Francesco will open a restaurant and pizzeria called Masseria in Scarsdale in October, 2010. 

La Villetta is located at 7 Madison Ave., Larchmont. It is open for lunch (12-3 p.m.), Monday through Saturday, except during July and August. It is open for dinner (5-10 p.m.), Monday through Saturday, year round. Closed on Sundays. Phone: 914-833-9416.