The Great Dobbs Ferry Sushi Survey

Within one mile of each other--we clocked it--Dobbs Ferry has five restaurants in which you can enjoy the pleasures of Japanese cuisine and sushi/sashimi. They all differ in atmosphere, their approach to Asian cuisine and in the vibrations they give off when you visit for the first time. So what are they like and what do they have to offer? And which restaurant might be the best for your taste?

I set out on a two week sushi quest but first I set down some rules. We tried to visit each restaurant at off-peak hours and I ordered similar dishes in each one: soup, salad, sushi, sashimi and a variety of rolls. In my estimation, it was the only way truly to test the differences among all five kitchens. My approach may sound less than exciting, yet we found quite a few nuances to each spot. From the new kid in town, 6-month-old Lemon Tree on Cedar, to the oldest, Tenbo across the street, our Japanese dining foray held quite a few palatal and sensory surprises.

Sushi Mike's Japanese Restaurant, 146 Main Street, Sunday, early dinner, seated about 5 pm. This is the place in everyone seems to be talking about. Japanese food mavens not just from Dobbs Ferry but all over greater Westchester have made this trendy restaurant their destination of choice. I know a family that recently moved up to Ardsley from Manhattan, and Sushi Mike's was already on their must-visit restaurant list. So, not surprisingly, it often gets so overcrowed there is a wait. And some of the tables are a bit too cozy.

But it's hard to fault Sushi Mikes for trying to cram so many people in--the spot gives off a certain energy and excitement we were not to find at our other stops. The nattily donned service staff in their dark pinstripe shirts; the sushi chefs, 3 behind the bar at one time, totally focusing on their craft. This bi-level dining room bustles most of the day right into the evening crush.

Our most pleasant hostess Michelle seated us and the staff went to work right away. A complimentary bite of a house sushi roll was delivered to our table as we checked out the menu. My dining partner and I ordered the Nabeyaki Udon, fat noodles with shrimp, chicken, vegetables and a poached egg floating on top of the steaming metal hot pot. It was served with a long skewer of shrimp tempura on the side. The soup looked great in all its decadence. The egg staring at you just waiting to be pierced and mixed into the broth. Whow! It was easily a meal in itself, enough for two or possible three--we got through it fine.

We could have easily left at that point, fully satiated, but we went for one of the Maki roll dinner specials: California roll, one spicy tuna roll and one eel, avocado and salmon roll. Each roll cut into six portions served with the ubiquitous sliced ginger and a mound of wasabi. Oh, that wasabi! I always enjoy the rush it gives you right up to your nostrils. And the rolls were quite good. We savored each of those 18 bites right down to the last.

Just one caveat though: our tiny table was already overloaded when our waitress brought out one of our main courses. We asked that she return with it when we were ready and she graciously complied.

Open 7 days. Phone: 914-591-0054 www.sushimikes.com

Lemon Tree Asian Cuisine, 27 Cedar Steet, Monday, lunchtime, seated at 1 pm. This is the newest arrival in town to offer its take on Japanese cuisine though it serves a multi- cultural Asian/fusion menu. They have  a sister restaurant with the same name that recently opened on Palmer Ave. in Bronxville across from Lawrence Hospital.

Upon entering, customers encounter one of the tallest sushi bars I have ever seen. You heard me right: it is big and lit up in blue. Yet the other side of the dining room was quite staid with few highlights. 

This whole Asian/fusion trend sometimes works and sometimes it does not. Not all these cuisines and cultures are alike. And the special features of each often become homogenized in the process. So as a solo diner I took my table with some trepidation. It all was friendly enough. Sandy and her staff were quite efficient. I opted for the Sushi/Sashimi lunch special: 4 pieces of sashimi, 4 pieces of sushi and 1 tuna roll. The meal came with a choice of Miso soup or salad. I went for the soup and it was standard. My platter arrived with a nice chef's selection, a swirl of daikon to cleanse the palate, a dollap of wasabi and sliced ginger. It was all just straightfoward and good. Most of the tables I noticed had ordered dishes from other cuisines. I would like to return here and try some of their Thai, Malay or Chinese specialties.

Open 7 days. Phone: 914-591-7088 www.lemontreeasiancuisine.com

Sushi Niji Japanese Restaurant, 73 Main Street, Monday, late lunch, seated 3 pm. This restaurant turned out to be one of the better surprises on my sushi quest. It was mid afternoon by the time I got there and I popped my head in to ask if they were still serving lunch. Owner Jeff Chen and his staff nodded yes, and I took a seat in this 6-year-old dining room. There were only two other tables taken at this time of the day.

Niji is a neat and clean dining room with blond wood tables and chairs and an understated atmosphere, except for a rim of  colorful Japanese banners and lanterns highlighting the sushi bar. Yet I felt a certain anticipation here, something telling me that this was the 'real thing'.  I ordered a special 3-roll lunch:  California roll,eel and cucumber roll, and spicy tuna roll. It was served with Miso soup and crispy house salad with its delightful ginger dressing which were fine. To my surprise the rolls on the platter, and they did look quite good, were larger, cut into 8 pieces each. After several bites I realized they were among the best I had,  24 pieces of foodie heaven!

Meanwhile, I overheard two young women at a table behind me ordering a house specialty called: Brooklyn Bridge. They must have been celebrating their love for sushi/sashimi because as I watched the sushi chef compile and organize the big serving platter that resembled a Japanese bridge it just looked so colorful, decadent and appealing at the same time I vowed to return with friends and order it myself. I did with permission get a photo of it for all of you readers to savor though. And as I left I said to the ladies: "I am so jealous!" We all laughed, the staff included.

Open 7 days. 914-693-8838 www.sushiniji.com

Tenbo Asian Fusion Cuisine, 16 Cedar Street, Thursday, lunch, seated at 1:30 pm. This is the oldest Asian restaurant in Dobbs Ferry having opened in 2002, serving Japanese cuisine. It bills itself as Asian/fusion but I suspect it is more of a Chinese/Japanese restaurant, a trend that started to take hold among Chinese restaurants some 15 years ago, according to my files.

The dining room is old-world, which is not necessarily a bad thing. Lacquered ornate Oriental tables and chairs are well spaced in the dining room and the sushi bar is in there too. When I arrived the TV overhead was tuned to the Food Network with none other than Sandra Lee creating one of her over-the-top 'tablescapes'.

After a quick chat with Bang, the cordial floor manager, I ordered their Maki lunch and watched as sushi chef Jason put it all together: 1 eel and cucumber roll, 1 spicy tuna roll, and 1 salmon roll with all the trimmings. I was pleased with the Miso soup which was loaded with product and quite good. The salad was also nice and crispy with its playful Japanese dressing. As for the platter of hand rolls, they turned out to be very good too especially the tasty crunch of the eel and cucumber roll. I also got a fortune cookie along with my check. I like being surprised this way...

Open 7 days. Phone: 914-674-2138 Fax: 914-674-0695

Sushi Bar at Brothers Market, 11 Ashford Ave. Thursday, about 3 pm. Back in 2002, Jay Kim who had operated Sushi By Jay inside Brothers moved to open a sushi bar at Stop & Shop down the street. He had a chain of them in mind back then. However, the sushi bar at Brothers Market is still operating albeit under new management. It sits on the Asford Ave. side of the  market and offers 7 seats where you can order away. My problem was the disconnect with the women manning the sushi bar when I arrived. She was prepping behind the bar, but did not appear to be serving at the time though the menus were in place along the sushi counter. 

I did not eat here on this occasion but judging from the menu and the color photos overhead, there are quite a few Japanese options, some standard, some not. The sushi bar itself appeared well stocked, and manned for take out as well. It is a pretty funky spot to indulge in sushi, and I am curious. I am pretty sure they use ingredients from their fishmarket and produce for their sushi bar.  I will try to return and report back. Has any one tried their sushi recently? Let us know...

Phone: 914-674-0707

 (Morris Gut is a restaurant consultant and former restaurant trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the dining scene in greater Westchester for over 25 years. He may be reached at: 914-235-6591. E-mail: gutreactions@optonline.net)