Business & Tech
Cafe Azzurri: NOT Another Pasta Joint
Every time an editor sends me to an Italian place to write a review, I say the same thing "No one wants to eat at those dead-duck, carbon copy pasta places." This is not one of those places.
Every time an editor sends me to an Italian place to write a review, I say the same thing:
"No one wants to eat at those dead-duck, carbon-copy pasta places."
This is southern Westchester. There are more Italian restaurants here than any other kind of restaurant, and our standards are high. A good 90 percent of those restaurants serve the same dishes, presented the same way, and those of us who grew up here, and have had the pleasure of a home-cooked Italian meal, are not impressed.
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My editor sent me to Azzurri (I was asked to go there weeks ago, but baulked since the site makes it look like a Euro-trash wine bar). It has replaced café Meze at 20 N. Central Ave. I arrived early and sat at the bar to view the dining room: large with hard wood walls, comfortable seating, and even some outdoor tables. The staff is more than familiar with the food, and my server told me honestly that he thought the meat and fish dishes were good, but the pasta was amazing. Still I decided to stick to my guns and avoid the pasta (carbs,carbs,carbs).
I started with the little neck clams in a white wine, garlic, Thai basil, ginger, and coconut curry broth. I found this to my liking but thought the ginger and coconut curry were over-shadowed by the other strong flavors. Still, the clams were cooked to perfection and I was happy.
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For an entrée I had the special, pork Osso Buco with a vegetable demi glace and parpadelli pasta. I was expecting a medium sized portion, but I received the entire shank. It was falling off the bone and tender enough to be eaten with just a fork, the flavor perfectly balanced. The pasta was muted enough to play second to this subtle dish and I am happy to say I almost finished it. Next time though I will bring help. I finished my meal with an espresso with some sambucca, as suggested by my server.
Café Azzurri boasts a raw bar menu, a generous three-course fixed price dinner and valet parking. Prices are reasonable, and the service is great; but, I would say the best thing about Azzurri is the presence of old Italians.
Café Azzurri gets an 8 out of 10 for food quality, service, and presentation.
