Boucherie celebrates the Belle Epoque

Restaurant Critique

Boucherie

225 Park Avenue South New York, NY

Pamela Goldman

Pictures: Gerald Feldman

Patch.com

Reminiscent of Paris during the Belle Epoque, Boucherie has an

air of the fun and excitement of everyday life which was so

much a part the essence of that historical period in France.

As soon as we walked into the restaurant, there was a vibrant

liveliness, beautifully colored posters from Parisian days gone by

and a mystique that you were being transported back a couple

of centuries to the period of time that Boucherie intends to evoke.

That warm evening, the front floor to very high ceiling windows

were wide open onto the sidewalk. Huge bouquets of autumnal

branches with changing leaves were placed throughout as well as large

mirrors reflecting back the gaiety of the magical night.

We were there to enjoy what the restaurant refers to as “ Cuisine
Francaise Traditionnelle.”

Our degustation began with an appetizer course of salad.

I ordered the Salade D’Auvergne which was a deliciously fresh

arrangement of baby arugula, endive, fourme d’ambert (which we were

told was a sprinkling of bleu cheese), candied walnuts, green apple slices

and a walnut vinaigrette. It was outstanding. The balance of bitter and
sweet prevailed successfully.

But I cannot emphasize enough to the readers of this review and to

the team of executive chefs, Dominik Pepe and Jerome Dihoi at Boucherie:

The real star of the evening was the main course of Boeuf Bourguignon.

This was a culinary masterpiece both in presence and flavoring. Made with

red-wine braised beef, carrot, pearl onions, celery, bacon and mushrooms,

the dish was prepared with such a great understanding of all the nuances
of a dish that goes back in time to the Middle Ages.

Originally a peasant dish, Boeuf Bourguignon has made its way to the haute

cuisine through many adaptations and refinements. Its roots are in

Burgundy, France, an area known for both its celebrated cattle and wonderful

wine. Brought to light again in the early 20th century by the famous

Chef Escoffier, Julia Child claimed it to be “certainly one of the most
delicious beef dishes concocted by man.” After having the version served at

Boucherie, I couldn’t agree more. The braised beef was so tender ensconced by

layers of flavoring peaking in the direction of what I equate as “food nirvana,” a

major pinnacle of my dining experiences in NYC.

Boucherie has mastered the art of french cuisine and I wholeheartedly

admire it’s style and vibe which mixes the past joie de vivre of Paris
during its Belle Epoque with contemporary sensibilities. And the wonder is that

it can be enjoyed right here in the heart of NYC, even if you can’t get

over to France anytime soon.