Il Divo....Greatest Pasta done in Style

Restaurant Critique

Il Divo

1347 2nd Avenue New York, NY

Pamela Goldman

Photos: Gerald Feldman

When we arrived at the restaurant Il Divo, we were warmly

greeted by the Maitre D’ Alessandro Ferdico. Nestled into a

back corner of the restaurant, we looked down at our plates

and saw the owner’s dream: a signed photograph image of

Rudolph Valentino which had been transferred on to the

creation of these plates. Il Divo embodies the magical and

mysterious qualities that made actor Rudolph Valentino

a legend for all time.

We were informed that owner Antonio Sinesi was born in Milan.

Yet his parents are from Castellaneta, in Puglia, the same town

where Rudolph Valentino began his life. Enchanted by having

the same heritage, Sinesi when visiting would go to the town

square and admire the hovering statue in memory of the legend.

It was here that Sinesi dreamed of creating a life in memory

of the icon. At Il Divo, one is transported back to the Hollywood

of the 1920’s. With glimmering chandeliers and antiques,we

are surrounded by a vast collection that owner Sinesi acquired

of Rudolph Valentino imagery. Found in flea markets and

antique shops, there are authentic movie posters and photographs

which cover the walls of the restaurant. You can’t help but

get a chill up your spine at the feeling of the icon’s mysterious presence.

The restaurant is less than a year old and is already being described

as a “hidden gem” that is taking the Upper East Side by storm.

Seating 55 people, everything is made from scratch including

the pasta which is what I want to focus on in this review.

Executive chef Matteo Limoli is clearly a master of his genre,

great Italian cuisine that melts in your mouth because of the

delicacy with which it is prepared. The elegance of the restaurant is

reflected in his fine handling of ingredients of which one

could only dream.

Like Valentino, owner Sinesi desired to come to the United

States to seek his fortune with his talent. Valentino began as

a dancer and Sinesi dances with culinary ambitions. I was

offered a glass of Prosecco and wandered the restaurant only

to find a rare vintage record album of Valentino’s singing. In

the photos he can be seen in white ties and tail suits or more

earthy, in a tank top revealing his toned, muscular body. His

far-away gaze is evident in his beauty. As I returned to my

velvet chair, I began to immerse myself in the cuisine.

Fettuccine, bolognese di vitello, pate di fegato d’oca, a

homemade fettuccine with veal, butter and foie gras,

exquisite in both flavor and texture, as such a treat and like

the legend himself, elusively disappeared only to leave me

wishing for more. How could pasta be this great? The subtle

flavors were spot-on and mysteriously connected me to what

can only be described as food-nirvana.

The second pasta was Agnolotti farciti di guancia di vitello

in suga d’arrosto. This dish was composed of tender mini

raviolis, braised veal in a light brown broth. Il Divo had

totally seduced me after the mini raviolis bursted in my mouth

with veal juices gushing out. Alright! I had finally found the

best pasta I had ever eaten in NYC and perhaps Italy as well.

I was so excited!!! To end the meal, a bowl of fresh fruit in a

lavender juice where a scoop of peach sorbet lay on top. Yum.

Our final talk with the Maitre D’ explained to us that Valentino

died suddenly at age 32 of a burst appendix. NYC shut down

completely that day and the story is that ten women across

the country committed suicide because of their grief. He was

beloved around the world. Our visit to Il Divo was all

encompassing. We left that magical restaurant with memories

of legendary proportions both of the food and the mystique

of the man who inspired the opening of this restaurant,

the great sheik himself, Rudolph Valentino. Gratitude for

being transported that night with such elegance and

refinement was all I could feel for the days to come.