Sevilla....six decades of southern Spain food!

Restaurant Critique

Sevilla

62 Charles Street New York, NY

Pamela Goldman

Photos: Gerald Feldman

In the historic West Village, Sevilla, the oldest Spanish restaurant

in the northern region of the United States, continues to thrive

beautifully. The restaurant originally opened its doors in 1941.

Yet before that it was originally a Dutch longshoreman’s gathering

place called Talk of the Town established in 1923. Respectful of it’s

history, the restaurant has maintained the original remnants of the past,

keeping the wooden plank ceilings as well as a varnish stain mural

which they carefully preserve. The current owners, Jose Lloves and brother
Bienvenido Alvarez, bought the restaurant six decades ago and it has been family

owned ever since. It is their life’s work to dedicate everyday to serving

only the best quality food and flavors to it’s loyal patrons. Sevilla’s

atmosphere is mystical and uplifting at the same time.

This vibe includes a Spanish guitar player who shows up on most

nights unexpectedly. The walls are adorned with art collections

that speak of it’s history especially those of the famous painter Mr.
Puentes, keeping the mind fascinated with the restaurant’s old school charm.

The waiters are all dressed up in white shirts and black ties and tuxedos

from noon until closing. People who used to go here in their youth are

now bringing their grandchildren. The famous Sarah Jessica Parker is

known to frequent Sevilla as well as other celebrities. After all these

years, the restaurant is still packed every evening. It is both

a romantic venue yet also a great family spot to create wonderful

memories. In it’s quaintness, you feel like you are in

a time warp from the moment you enter until you leave.

Everyone who comes to Sevilla, falls in love with the restaurant

because each customer is treated authentically like an old

friend with warmth and grace.

The cuisine has it’s roots in Andalucia, a mountainous

region of southern Spain. For appetizers, we were served

Spanish potatoes which were more like large thick chips.

Tender in the center and crispy on the edges, they were

perfectly salted and did not require anything else like ketchup

to eat. Then we had mushrooms in garlic sauce. Served warm

like the chips, they were perfectly seasoned. The portions are

very large here so expect to share everything you order. With

the fantastic flavorings we were experiencing reminded us

of why Sevilla won the James Beard award in 2015.

We dove into our main course, Paella a la Valenciana which

has chicken, sausage and seafood. Prepared with saffron, white

wine and olive oil, the dish was served piping hot in a lid-covered

pot. The rice had deliciously absorbed the flavors of the seasoning

and the various components. More than enough for two, we

couldn’t restrain ourselves and polished it off because of it’s

multitude of layered flavorings. Sevilla’s strive for excellence

was proven over and over again throughout the entire meal.

Head Chef, Pedro Yanez has worked the kitchen for 40 years.

In this increasingly fast-paced society in which we find ourselves,

always running to catch up or just the overwhelm and

anxiety affecting so many lives, there is an escape. To unwind

in a place that has years of continuity and history, Sevilla

is a place to depend on, year after year for the sanity

of the soul, mind and appetite. Bravo!!!!