Restaurant Critique
Vin sur Vingt
66 West 84th Street New York, NY
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Pamela Goldman
Photos: Gerald Feldman
Find out what's happening in Upper East Sidefor free with the latest updates from Patch.
Patch.com
Owner Sebastian Auvent nailed it: the perfect French
wine bar, now in 6 locations in NYC (and soon to be Washington D. C.).
As an entrepreneur, Auvent first came to the United States at 27 and later opened
his first wine bar in 2011. Vin sur Vingt is a play on words, infers to twenty out of
twenty, a perfect score: 20 white wines and 20 reds, all served by the glass. His motto is “ first
wine, then conversation, then ambiance.”
Vin sur Vingt is a deeply personal affair for Auvet and we experienced the same at his 84th
street location. Unfussy and unpretentious, you really feel like you are
tucked away in an old world establishment in Paris. It is one french institution that is hard to come by here in NYC, especially at such reasonable prices. With a classically
french menu, we were in store for the pleasures that this romantic, hidden gem offers in spades.
This cozy, dimly lit venue was so Parisian in style with red
banquets, mirrors on the walls with scribbles of the house daily specials. There was a mixture of 70’s music both ranging from reggae to the Bee Gees.(playing very softly so you
could hear your company without any interference).
The lovely, demure waitress came to our table to serve our
first appetizer: Brie au Miel. This was an artful combination
of warm brie oozing on a slice of bread with honey laced throughout. The quality of the Brie was excellent ...no bitterness here! We certainly did the tastebud tango with this one.
Then came our main course. Mine was Steak Tartare au Couteau.
This was hand chopped beef tenderloin mixed with capers, cornichons, parsley, ketchup, tabasco sauce and Dijon mustard. On top of this assemblage was a delicately placed raw egg yolk. I mixed the yoke in and after a few swirls, placed the tartare on the seasoned crostini. Tasty it was!
My partner chose the delicious shrimp club sandwich. Made with
marinated warm shrimp, wasabi mayo, tomato and avocado, served on a crunchy baguette. Both main courses were served with a salad of greens dressed with a subtle vinaigrette.
Finally, Vin sur Vingt completely outdid itself with the most delicious dessert of all, the french classic Tarte Tatine. This was an upside down apple pie with buttery layers of
puff-pastry. The exposed sliced apples were perfectly cooked and warm. Dancing on my tongue was the very rich cinnamon crème: with my eyes closed the pleasure just melted in my mouth. I open my eyes to find myself on a NYC side street.
Along with the red banquets and original tin ceiling, Vin sur Vingt carries a huge selection of over 100 rotating wines, informing us that Auvent takes his wine very
seriously. This has been the foundation of his ever growing success. The night grows busier and
excitement infuses the air. The ceiling fan and the large open
windows leading to the sidewalk keep the autumnal breezes flowing this place of authentic Parisian cool.
Auvet takes his formula for success in stride.
He has created a strongly, much needed groove in the tapestry
of NYC night life-all with an authentic french sophistication that has yet to be surpassed both far and wide in it’s cool, understated way.
