Mulino's: A Classic Dining Experience

It begins with the bright colorful lights and smell of chestnuts roasting at the entranceway. You can even take home a complimentary bag of them. The annual holiday fest at lasts right thru New Year's and is a sight to behold.

Inside, the fountain garden is as beautiful, as the lavish multi-level dining room and bar/lounge. General manager of 20 years GianLuigi "Gimmy" Cavagna and his staff are keeping the premises extravagant as ever: gesticulating Christmas decorations galore, life-size toy soldiers, bursting colorful floral displays, and the sparkling grappa and glassware collection.

Bring the whole family just to take a peek and some pictures. The house does not mind. It's a scene that has been going on in this restaurant for 21 years.

"You have to love it," said Cavagna. "It's hospitality in the true Italian sense."

debuted at its original location on Barker Avenue in White Plains in 1989. The restaurant moved in 1993 to its present spot at 99 Court St. The restaurant, frequented by an upscale crowd, is under the careful guidance of proprietor Louis Gigante.

The intricate glassware; the collection of grappas—one of the largest in the metro area—the Thomas Kinkades on the walls; the handsome dining room and lounge lush with fresh flowers most of the year; and the lovely soothing view of the garden outside with its seasonal landscaping and waterfall is a setting requiring constant attention to detail and service, said Cavagna.

At once seated, all are served tasty complimentary helpings of Italian cheeses, hot and mild cured meats, herb-baked zucchini, grilled bread with fresh chopped tomatoes. The antipasto offers a time to munch and consider the menu and recited daily specialties.

Indulgences from kitchen include the extraordinary cold seafood platter—prepared for two or more—loaded with fresh chilled lobster, colossal U5 shrimp, Alaskan king crab legs, sweet lump crabmeat, Jonah crab claws beautifully decorated and served over crushed ice with three luscious sauces: dijonnaise, cocktail sauce and spicy horseradish.

A seafood banquet that will propel your palate to foodie heaven.

Recommend hearty pastas include: Tagliatelle alla Bolognese tossed in a rich meat ragu; Linguine Nere con Coda d'Aragosta Marechiara or black linguine with baby lobster tails in a light tomato sauce.

For a main course try the hefty Nodino di Vitello Valdostana, double-cut veal chop stuffed with prosciutto, fresh herbs and cheese, braised in brandy, with shitake mushroom and petite pea cream sauce; Cernia Marechiaro, Florida red snapper sauteed in a light tomato sauce, served with New Zealand clams; or the  Carre d'Agnello al Forno, American prime rack of lamb roasted and served with sage sauce.

It's hard to find Dover sole on menus theses days, but it is finished off and fileted here tableside—the delicate sweet meat ready to titillate your palate. Other dishes on the menu are prepared tableside as well.

If you have room for dessert, I would suggest the smooth Italian cheesecake or, have the house mix up a fresh batch of Zabaglione and berries right in front of you.  

Special Hint: The bar/lounge is a good place to unwind and there's often a solid White Plains networking crowd along for the ride.

is located at 99 Court Street, White Plains. The restaurant is open Monday thru Friday for lunch, noon to 3 p.m. Main courses at lunch: $18.50 to $44.50. Dinner served Monday thru Saturday from 5 p.m. Main courses at dinner: $22.75 to $44.50. Bar/lounge and cocktails. Banquet facilities. Player piano. Major credit cards. Proper casual dress. Municipal parking days; valet parking evenings. Reservations suggested, especially during the holidays. Phone: 914-761-1818. www.mulinosny.com

(Morris Gut is a restaurant consultant and former restaurant trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the dinings scene in greater Westchester for over 25 years. 914-235-6591. E-mail: gutreactions@optonline.net)