Bites Nearby: Momocho

Cinco de Mayo was inspired by an unlikely 1862 victory by the Mexican Army and is celebrated in the United State to honor Mexican heritage. But for those of us who are not of Mexican descent, it's just an occasion to go do something Mexican for an evening — like all those non-Irish St. Patrick's Day celebrants. 

(If the Mexican Army had won that battle in December, I wonder if we'd be schlepping out in the snow to find a good margarita in celebration of Cinco de Diciembre.)

There are lots of Mexican restaurants to choose from around here, and Ohio City is home to one that's quite different from the traditional Tex-Mex that we know and love. Momocho serves Mod Mex cuisine that uses all the spices and flavors that are so familiar, but pairs not-so-standard proteins like wild boar, ground lamb, duck confit and smoked trout with accompanying sides and salsas that are fresh and complex.

Every item on the menu has had special attention: The tortilla chips come out warm, with a dusting of cumin and salt, and the six guacamole options, $7-$8 per bowl, with combinations like pineapple-jicama-habañero-mint or smoked trout-bacon-poblano are so intruguing. (Celebrity chef Guy Fieri visited the restaurant and featured some of the wild guacamole combos on his show.)

The taquitos, which you assemble with warm white corn tortillas and two flavorful sauces, range from $12.50 to $17.50. We had the avocado leaf-crusted tuna with candied jalapeño and blood orange marmalada, and the baby octopus with potatoes, capers and saffron mayonesa. Both came with green chile.

The Especiales range from $16 to $19.50 for items like smoked trout and crab chilaquiles, Kobe beef albondigas, adobo lamb chops ... and did I mention the bar boasts more than 45 tequilas and a margarita sampler?

Momocho is located just outside Lakewood in Ohio City on Fulton Road, about five blocks West of West Side Market. The interior décor is earthy and desert-toned with a quirky tribute to Lucha Libre; Frida Kahlo's wary gaze will catch you from a couple of vantages; low-rider bikes placed up high are reminiscent of a boyhood prank.

They do have a parking lot with about 12 spaces, but you will no doubt need to find street parking. The outdoor patio is open, weather permitting, with a handful of tables and trees with twinkly lights. The bar is well-tended and efficient; you won't have to wait long for a drink or a well-understood description of the menu.

Chef and owner Eric Williams has created a real labor of love here, and his staff expertly helps him connect a serious menu with a casual, up-to-date atmosphere that's laden with unconventional whimsy.

MOMOCHO

Phone: 216-694-2122

Hours: Tuesday-Saturday: 5 p.m. - close 
Sunday: 4 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.

Reservations: Accepted for parties of six or less.

Credit cards: Are accepted.

Happy hour: Tuesday-Friday, 5 p.m. - 6:30 p.m., bar area and first floor only, half-price golden margaritas, Tecate and taquitos.