Bites Nearby: The Greenhouse Tavern

The Greenhouse Tavern — downtown on East 4th Street — is not a glassy storefront with an herby-veggie menu; there is no New Age music playing, no cleansing teas.

The décor is masculine, roadhouse-meets-bistro, with high ceilings and weathered repurposed plank walls; swanky metal and leather chairs at the bar; light fixtures cleverly constructed from bike rims and spokes glow massively overhead.

It’s organic and textured and welcoming.

We sat upstairs in the mezzanine — the music was early 80’s British — it seemed the grittiness of George Thorogood may have been apropos, but, strangely, the Clash was also fitting.

The tables are close together, but having to focus on the menu and the wine list, I never noticed the proximity of my neighbors. The smaller dining areas were designed to create enclaves of intimacy in what could be cavernous.

An earthy Zinfandel with overtones of ripe strawberries and new leather contented us while our waiter expounded on the menu: it is divided into 4 sections- choose à la carte or a 4-course meal at $44 (choose one item from each section - the 4th section can also be dessert). ”Firsts” range from $5-11, “Seconds” range from $6-14 and “Thirds” range from $15-59, “Halfs” and Desserts (the Fourth course options) are $6-11.

My first course, Crispy Hominy had such robust textures and flavors- sweet corn, spicy roasted chiles, pickled red onion, toasty cumin, fresh cilantro, pork shin cracklins… I wanted to clap and/or lick the plate.

The second course, Ohio Chévre Salad, was just as thrilling: kid goat confit and local Chévre spread on a warm crouton flanking a vinaigrette-tossed small salad of cilantro, mint and baby greens. Goat is less gamey than lamb, and it was the perfect tender partner to the goat cheese that was crispy and brown on the edges; the meatiness and the creaminess keep the acidic vinaigrette in check.

Our entrées were beyond the pale: Chicken Fried Lamb Steak with buttermilk breading, peppery velouté, crisp spicy cabbage slaw and Surf N’ Turf Potée with braised beef, poached scallop, capon roulade, BBQ pork belly, fennel sausage, new potato.

The Greenhouse Tavern uses locally farmed foods and employs green business practices. I can’t help but gush in appreciation- this restaurateur had great vision and principles creating a space and a menu that are unique and invigorating; the staff are capable with an innate understanding of all things food, providing interactive service that stays on topic- no bells, whistles or kitsch.

GHT is open seven days, reservations can be made online via OpenTable and parking is available in nearby lots, on the street or by valet (about $8). Credit cards are accepted.

Open

Monday-Thursday: 11AM to 11PM

Friday: 11AM to 1AM

Saturday: 5PM to 1AM

Sunday: 4PM to 10PM