Pier W in Lakewood Offers Fine Dining with Impressive View

Lakewood is situated a stone’s throw from downtown Cleveland, Ohio City and Tremont restaurants, yet somehow, there are very few eateries that can claim any status beyond tavern, burger joint or pizzeria… I suppose I lean heavily – maybe even unfairly – on the fine dining places, because I have different criteria for them. is just such a high-end restaurant located in Winton Place overlooking Lake Erie.

The longtime Lakewood staple has a very popular Sunday brunch at $35 per person; lunch items up to $20; a limited bar menu ranging from $6.50 to $18; a dinner menu that can run you $21 to $45 for an entrée, with vegetarian options in the $18 range; the Happy Hour menu is the Bar Menu with prices cut in half...the wine options range from $23 to $1,500 per bottle — a very impressive list.

The chef’s menus are lovely, with delicious preparations – sneaking in unusual ingredients here and there, like Purple Peruvian Mashed Potatoes and Lavender Honey Butter, but I do not get the culinary thrill I’d like while paying $$$.

The Lobster Pappardelle, $28, is very tasty — with chunks of Maine lobster, roasted red peppers, haricots vert and a light cognac-cream sauce over ribbons of fresh pasta — executed expertly — but it’s not too dissimilar from what was happening in fine dining when I was in culinary school 18 years ago… the Roasted Black Pearl Pork Tenderloin, $23, is wrapped in bacon and comes with tarragon spaetzel, braised cabbage and a red wine jus… again, delicious- but underwhelming- because I have seen it before. The Pan-seared Sea Scallop with Quinoa Salad served at is more to my taste…

Pier W’s interior is streamlined, nautical and glassy with great views of the lake - large windows showcase spectacular sunsets and the Cleveland skyline; the lighting effect is a bit like being underwater or at the aquarium; there is often live jazz piano; the cocktail lounge/bar seats 50; the dining room seats about 100.

In spite of the top-dollar design and fresh-from-the water seafood at Pier W, I continue to be thwarted by the fact that there isn’t open-air access to that view. The outdoor observation deck above the lake would be a delightful destination on a beautiful day – our waitress informed us it would be too difficult to transport the food, but I keep dreaming about a raw bar and a limited menu, and, of course, a drinks bar...

I don’t mind splurging on a meal, but I want more creativity with preparations and flavors that exhilarate my palate … to me, Pier W seems to have fallen into the trap of practice makes permanent: the food is prepared well, but the menu is passé…

At the same time, not everyone shares my desire to become invigorated by a meal - reservations are hard to come by and they fill every seat time and again. This is a restaurant that has mastered consistency and quality, and it will never be a gamble going there, because you will always have top-notch service and a delicious meal.

Reservations are available via the Pier W website. There is a free parking lot with valet parking available. Credit cards accepted.