Bites Nearby: La Locanda del Cavallo

Every so often one discovers a gem right in their own backyard; in this case, a place that has existed for years but feels fresh and exciting. This week’s feature, La Locanda del Cavallo, is just such a place.

La Locanda del Cavallo, translated from Italian, means “the inn of Cavallo,” which is an apt name for this intimate hideaway. Calling it a restaurant, however, just doesn’t do it justice.

Cavallo’s is a multi-faceted and unique dining experience, inspired by the charm of Italian villas and the “old country.” It is located on South Delaware Drive, away from the hustle of downtown Easton. The building, which is surrounded by statues, gardens, and outdoor tables, overlooks the scenic Delaware River.

Inside, the space is deceptively large. Several dining rooms are set up throughout the labyrinthine walls of Cavallo’s. Tables, which are set for two to fourteen people, are adorned with ornate place settings and fresh-flower centerpieces.

Owner and renowned chef Shirley Cavallo originally opened her restaurant 33 years ago as a tack shop, back when there was only a small cottage on the premises. Her original eatery served hamburgers, sandwiches and soups, all made fresh.

Over the years, Cavallo and her family added to the cottage to create the manor that currently houses both the restaurant and her inn.

Everything—emphasis on everything— is made from scratch, from the sauces and pastas to the desserts. Even wedding cakes are homemade by Shirley Cavallo. All of her ingredients are organic; many of the vegetables used in the kitchen are home-grown in a garden. Asparagus grows wild on the hill behind the house and herbs are grown in pots on the outdoor deck.

According to Cavallo, “That’s an inspiration in itself, going into the garden, picking them myself. It gives everything a fresh flair.”

But there’s something one should know about dining at Cavallo’s: there is no menu. When someone calls for a reservation, Cavallo reviews options and cooks based on preferences.

“When people call, I go over everything with them,” she said. “They’ve heard about us from someone else, and I can’t count on them being told everything.”

Cavallo makes sure that allergens are avoided; in fact, to avoid such issues, she doesn’t use any nuts or nut oils in her cooking, unless specifically requested.

“I like to make everything special,” she said. “The most important thing is that it’s memorable… I want people to remember the experience.”

Experience is the word that best sums up Cavallo’s. They are open anytime (a word that Cavallo uses often), as per reservations. She particularly enjoys events, whether they be birthdays, weddings, bar mitzvahs, or traveling groups.

Children are not only welcome, they are encouraged.

“I love children,” said Cavallo. “Children belong at parties.”

Cavallo, whose own background is Austrian-Venetian, caters not only according to preference, but also ethnicity. She has no problem preparing French, German, Greek, or Polish dishes, varied as her culinary prowess is.

As she is wont to say, it’s all about accommodating.

Cavallo studied with chef Julie Dannenbaum in Philadelphia, and made many influential associations during her time with her. However, she attributes her love of cooking to her grandmother.

“When you’re a child, it’s the best time to learn, especially from a loving grandmother,” said Cavallo. “I definitely followed her by the apron-strings.”

In addition to running the restaurant and inn alongside her son, Brondo Cavallo, Shirley Cavallo also teaches cooking classes. She generally teaches groups of five or six at a time, and coaches primarily in stocks and sauces. She shows how to cook with meats, seafood and vegetables; how to make wine sauces; and how to braise, poach and flambé.

“I basically teach the need-to-know,” joked Cavallo. “Everything you can’t just get out of a cookbook.”

The upper two floors of La Locanda del Cavallo hold their five inn suites, decorated in an old-world style with many paintings and family portraits. Cavallo allows guests to stay any night, anytime, so long as they dine there. Breakfast the following morning is included.

Guests come to Cavallo’s from as far as New York, Maryland and Connecticut. Some names that have passed through the restaurant include Paul Newman, Joanne Woodward, and Joe Montana, among others.

Despite the seeming popularity, the Cavallos do little to no advertising.

“It’s more word-of-mouth,” said Brondo Cavallo. “It’s always been that way for us.”

Dining at La Locanda del Cavallo is by reservation only. The entire multiple-course dining experience is $120 per person, not including tax and gratuities. They are a BYOB establishment; guests are always welcome to bring their own wines. According to their website, www.experiencecavallos.com, their kitchen is always open.

“We try to do the things that just aren’t done anymore,” said Cavallo. “It’s more Old World.”