Restaurant Review: Sukho Thai

Restaurant:
Address: 20 E. Eagle Rd., Havertown, PA 19083
Rating: (out of 5 stars): ★★★★
Style: Intimate neighborhood BYOB
Food: Thai
Atmosphere: Colorful, Thai-inspired dining room
Parking: Street parking is difficult, side lot is easier
Service: Very friendly and extremely accommodating
Price Range: Moderate
Unique Features: Numerous vegetarian and duck options on the menu as well as Thai desserts.

It was a friend's birthday and I asked her what she wanted to eat for dinner and without hesitation she replied, "Thai." 

I didn't know too many great Thai restaurants in the area but remembered that was on my list of places I needed to review so I took a risk and suggested we go there.

We arrived with a bottle of easy drinking red wine in tow and found parking easily in the lot right around the corner. The pleasant server arrived tableside almost instantly and offered to open our bottle while we looked over the menu. The table settings with ornate napkin foldings, gold silverware and colorful tablecloths were visually striking as were the assorted dashes of color throughout the dining room. 

We ordered the chive dumplings, fried calamari and green papaya salad to start. The chive dumplings were excellent. Each one had a wonderfully crisp exterior, slightly chewy wrapper and interior bursting with well seasoned sauteed greens. The sweet soy dipping sauce was tasty but not necessary as these were enjoyable enough on their own.

The calamari rings were larger and thicker than normal and deep fried in a golden batter which could have been a touch lighter. Though fairly good, these needed a dip in the sweet and savory dipping sauce which had hints of fish sauce as well. 

The salad was brimming with julienned strips of crunchy and refreshing green papaya, bright orange carrot, green beans, peanuts and tomatoes. It was all tossed in a bright, acidic, sweet, salty and complex vinaigrette that tied it all together. Thai food is characterized by this balance of different flavors and I could taste lime juice, fish sauce, palm sugar and even some heat from chiles in the vinaigrette. 

For our entrees we had chicken pad thai, beef drunken noodles and a curry duck dish. The pad thai was a better rendition than I've had in most other places. The dish was full of flavor rather than tasting like bland noodles tossed in watered-down soy sauce. The noodles had a nice texture and the combination of fresh bean sprouts, grilled chicken, firm tofu, lime juice, crushed peanuts, tamarind, fish sauce and sugar melded together in a wonderful harmony. 

The beef drunken noodles took the cake as it were. The thick noodles were bathed in the rich and savory sauce which was slightly spicy with a sweet afterthought. The big strips of beef and the abundant vegetables complimented rather than weighed down the dish. There was no skimping on ingredients here. Each forkful contained lush noodles, vegetables and a hearty piece of beef.

The curry duck dish was fairly good. The curry sauce was sweet due to the presence of coconut milk and had nice body. The pineapple chunks also added a sweet and tangy component to the sauce. The duck itself was a bit overcooked in some areas and completely charred in other areas. It was like a duck lottery and where you grabbed your piece from affected whether of not you enjoyed this dish. The jasmine rice was beautifully steamed and had a great toothsome texture and fragrance.

For dessert we had the deep fried banana and mango sticky rice. The deep fried banana was a bit much for my tastes. The batter was thick and overwhelming. The condensed milk dipping sauce was also extremely sweet. The sticky rice redolent of coconut milk and topped with slices of juicy fresh mango and a light sprinkling of sesame seeds was much more my speed.

The service was outstanding. Our server exuded an unbelievably generous spirit and could not have been more accommodating. She was friendly, funny, attentive and extremely hard working.

As our dinner wore on, the dining room began to fill steadily until every table was filled. Miraculously, we never had to wait long for our food, refills on our water glasses or to have our plates cleared. Even if the dinner hadn't been as good as it had been, I would go back to Sukho Thai simply because of the efforts of that one woman.

Click here for the website.

Click here for the menu.