Bites Nearby: Molinari's

At Molinari’s on Bethlehem’s South Side, simple meets sophisticated. The restaurant is quite new (open only about six months), and occupies a corner location in a bustling, pedestrian-friendly sector. Outdoor seating on the broad front sidewalk adds another dimension to the dining experience. Inside, high ceilings and contemporary décor—sleek lines, dark wood, absence of clutter and kitsch—create an airy space for attention to focus on fresh Italian dishes with subtle flavors.

Service is for dinner only, Monday through Saturday. Molinari’s menu has been carefully edited. Just a few dishes appear in each category, but each one represents a complex combination of flavors. Among the antipasti, priced $8-$13, is creamy polenta and sweet sausage ragu. The innovative watercress and red grapefruit salad ($10) is dressed with shaved fennel, pistachio pesto and extra virgin olive oil.

All pasta is made fresh, and pasta entrees are available in full or half portions. Molinari’s steers clear of “common” Italian fare (lasagna, veal parm), opting instead for intriguing ingredients and presentations. Currently on the menu are orecchiette (pasta in the shape of tiny ears) with roasted cauliflower and mushrooms, parsley and black truffle pangrattato, and pine nut crusted salmon prepared with braised Swiss chard, garbanzo beans and melted leeks (most entrees $16-$22).

Distantly related to everyday pizza in a cardboard box, Molinari’s pizza explores different culinary directions. Two examples are salami picante pizza fashioned with soppressata, tomato, mozzarella and chili oil, and robiola and roasted cippolini pizza (distinctive Italian cheese and onions) topped with hazelnuts, lardo, arugula and truffle oil. Pizzas are priced $12-$14.

The wine list is all Italian, and beer, specialty cocktails and digestives also strongly reflect Italian influence. Gelatos and sorbets are made fresh on the premises. In addition to the indoor tables and more secluded booths, patrons may choose to dine at the large three-sided bar, whose central location provides a focal point in the dining room.

322 E. Third St., Bethlehem, PA 18015.  610-625-9222.  www.molinarimangia.com