Restaurant Alba is a Delicious Destination

It’s hard to categorize Restaurant Alba. There are Italian influences in the pasta and wine list reflecting its namesake town in Northern Italy. The chef has been using local ingredients since opening in 2005—well before the recent farm-to-table movement gained popularity. A hint of smoke from the wood burning grill can be detected upon opening the front door to the candlelit, white-tablecloth restaurant. These elements blend wonderfully to make this spot on King Street a delightful destination for serious food lovers.

A greeter seated us at an ivory banquette on the rear wall, next to a round table with padded wooden chairs for larger groups. We thought we were the only ones who were not away on vacation during the first part of our mid-week July dinner, but were soon joined by others in the front room with warm sage and orange-red walls.

A friendly, professional server promptly filled our water glasses and described the daily specials. A three course “Harvest Menu” ($35) that highlighted seasonal, local food was available with two entrée options. The Antipasto appetizer ($15 per person) changes daily based on the chef’s inspiration and includes small tastes of five different items.

We had great difficulty in choosing from the enticing items, ranging from Spaghetti alla Chitarra ($22) or Pine Nut and Raisin Gnocchi ($18) to Slow Roasted Berkshire Pork ($24). Our server was exceptionally patient and helpful in explaining the offerings—the alla Chiatarra is literally “guitar strings,” named after the device they use to cut the pasta by hand. He was also knowledgeable about the wine selection and helped us discover an unusual Lagrien Rio Reserva 2003 ($42) with complex flavor and subtle tannins.

Our server brought one demi tasse cup of gazpacho which was the evening’s amuse bouche since we had already ordered it as one of our appetizers. A basket of spongy, lightly crusted fresh bread and dishes of olive oil came with the little cup and saucer of refreshing cold soup. Our server brought a decanter for serving our wine, and presented it elegantly.

A bowl of Gazpacho Soup ($9) and a square ceramic plate of Wood Grilled Octopus ($15) arrived after we had enjoyed some wine and bread. The puréed soup was served with small fresh cubes of cucumber and drops of olive oil on top. The orange-red color and flavor were fresh tomatoes, peppers and balanced seasoning.

The octopus was tender with crispy ends, but had little grill flavor. Thin slices of new potatoes and arugula were dressed with a bit too much olive oil for us, but the dish was still quite enjoyable.

We decided to try the Cape May Tilefish ($26), which our server told us is a truly regional fish. A thick, firm white fillet was tender under a thin crispy coating. A mild Tzatziki sauce was a surprisingly good complement to the fish, as were chickpea fritters—airy filling seared to crispiness on the outside. Dark sautéed Swiss chard, pancetta, tomatoes and red onions made for a slightly salty contrast.

Creekstone Farm Hanger Steak ($26) was cooked to order, and served sliced and fanned over potato chunks with the texture of mashed potatoes. Lemony tart julienne of yellow squash decorated the top of the red-pink meat. The steak was a generous portion of tender meat that reminded us of chu toro (tuna belly) with the richness of the marbled fat melting in the mouth like butter.

While we delighted in our meat, we overheard a nearby table asking about vegan substitutions for several items. The server suggested some additional options and the returning customers seemed pleased with their meal.

We considered the consequences of enjoying some dessert after finishing the moderate portions of our two courses. We decided that a peach tart ($8) or a cheese plate ($14) would be too much and compromised on a piece of Laura’s Biscotti ($2.75) which was offered in three flavors. A generous slice of chocolate pistachio biscotti was firm but not break your teeth crunchy like some. It was not intensely sweet and made a good match for the remaining wine.

While others may travel long distances to enjoy a break from their usual routine, we felt fortunate to have taken a short drive to find a relaxing and delicious destination in Alba.

7 West King Street, Malvern

Telephone: 610-644-4009

Website: restaurantalba.com

Hours: Lunch, Thurs, Fri, 11:30 a.m. – 2 p.m.; Dinner, Tues, Wed, Thurs, 5:30 – 9 p.m.; Fri, Sat, 5:30 - 10 p.m.; Closed Mon, Tues

Cost: Appetizers, soups, $9 to $15; entrees, $18 – $33

Credit cards: VISA, MasterCard, American Express

Alcohol: Full Bar

Special Features: Wood burning grill, local ingredients, vegetarian options