Bites Nearby: Mountainside Restaurant and Lodge

The portable electric sign pitching lobster tail in front of the Mountainside Restaurant and Lounge doesn’t exactly scream fine dining.

But inside we found that the dining is just fine, even if the surroundings are badly in need of an update.

We parked on the north side of the building – formerly the Captain’s Table -- at 2720 S. Pike Ave. (S. 4th St. or Route 145), which turned out to be the back entrance. Greeted by two large pots of plastic flowers, a stuffed turkey, the eye-watering aroma of  heavy duty cleaning product and what sounded like a growling animal (the turkey?), we made our way upstairs to the dining room.

The décor was early utilitarian. Drop ceiling, worn carpet, Christmas tree, more plastic flowers and a few patriotic knickknacks. However, the large windows offered a pretty view of South Mountain and the surrounding neighborhood along S. 4th Street.

When our eyes turned to the menu, the place started looking better. At least 30 entrees are offered, including a full range of steaks, chops, chicken, duck and seafood, all priced very reasonably.

One appetizer jumped out of the menu immediately: escargot, not something you see often in the Lehigh Valley. I’ve had them in France, but I opted for more familiar fare. We went with seafood chowder for me and the spinach and artichoke dip for my fiancée, a vegetarian.

The dip was served with grilled slices of Italian bread and packed tightly with spinach and artichoke, not swimming in sour cream or melted cheese. Good stuff.

The excellent seafood chowder was thick with chunks of fish and potatoes. A bigger bowl would have been a meal.

For dinner, I went with broiled scallops. They were done just right – a little brown on top, firm but not overcooked. The portion was big enough for two, but, of course, I ate them all. The scallops came with garlic mashed potatoes (pretty good) and steamed broccoli (overdone, but does anyone really care if a restaurant has good broccoli?).

My fiancée ordered spaghetti with marinara, one of three entrée choices for those who don’t eat meat or fish. (Manicotti and fettuccine Alfredo are the others.) The marinara had a bright, fresh flavor. She would have preferred whole grain pasta, but it was good.

If you’re a vegan, there’s not much here for you. There are no salads on the menu other than the house salad, which comes with dinner and isn’t bad – mixed greens and a little pepper, red onion, cucumber and carrot.

The wine list was so-so, featuring some inexpensive wines with hefty markups. I thought $24 was a bit stiff for our bottle of Harlow Ridge pinot noir, which retails for $5.99 on the PLCB website.

In all, our bill was a bargain at about $69 before tip.

The Mountainside features a piano player on weekends and reservations are suggested.

Mountainside Restaurant and Lounge

2720 S. Pike Ave.

Allentown, Pa. 18103  (Salisbury Township)

Phone: 610-797-3127