Georges': Four Star Flavor at a Fraction of the Price

The ridiculously famous and talented chef Thomas Keller once wrote that things made with truffles and foie gras are undeniably delicious because these items are so wonderfully flavorful on their own. He went on to say that it takes true skill to elevate something simple like a mixed green salad to the realm of deliciousness because the ingredients are so ordinary. I'm paraphrasing here obviously but his main point is that French bistro food is his favorite, it's what he cooks at home. 

In Philadelphia, we have our very own very famous 4 star chef in Georges Perrier. Many of my own friends count meals at his Le Bec Fin among the best of their lives. Instead of opening another 4 star fine dining temple on the Main Line he opened Georges', a casual yet sophisticated French bistro style restaurant. 

I visited here recently for lunch and had a wonderful time with good food, great wine and outstanding service--all the hallmarks of four star dining.

We opted to sit in the more casual bar area instead of the more formal white tablecloth dining room (menus are identical for both). We chose a sunny table by the window and perused our menus. I ordered a glass of the Georges DuBoeuf Macon Villages Chardonnay (subdued and refreshing, it's an easy drinking wine). The wine list is excellent and diverse. What's especially notable is the Sommelier's Selection, a 1999 Dom Perignon available by the glass.  A bottle like this is special so the option to enjoy a glass of it is equally special and hard to find (though quite pricey). This bottle is on the list at other restaurants but to have it by the glass is unheard of. The excellent bread basket with thick and crusty on the outside, chewy on the inside baguette slices and some interesting ultra-thin poppy seed crackers was attacked immediately.

We ordered the gorgeous yellow fin tartare to start. The fish was fresh and clean tasting as were the baby greens but we were not big fans of the wasabi dressing. I wanted some more acid. The nearly translucent crisp with black sesame seeds was a baking feat, so thin--so uniform. It offered a nice textural contrast to the tartare.

For our entrees we had the mussels with lemon garlic broth and frites and the prosciutto salad. The salad was quite large and had plenty of slices of savory and satisfying prosciutto, arugula, parmesan and sliced almonds. The balsamic vinaigrette (regular and not white balsamic vinegar was used) was tart and just slightly sweet which balanced well with the salty prosciutto. This is a great high protein low-carb lunch option.

The mussels arrived with great fanfare in a huge bowl and separate order of golden brown fries. The mussels were delicate and had so much flavor. The broth was bright and multi-layered without being overpowering. I could taste the lemon and herbs with just a hint of garlic. The fries were so good. Crunchy, hot and delicious, it took tremendous will power not to finish all of them.

The decor in the bar area is dominated by wood which lends a sort of rustic country farmhouse feel to it. The space was clean and wide open, the casual ambiance was comforting and welcoming. This would be an ideal place for a quick lunch in the middle of your day or for a long catch-up session with one of your nearest and dearest. I did find that the demographic of the diners was mostly (if not all) female when we went. 

The service was spot on. Our server was knowledgeable, friendly and even funny. He was attentive to all our needs, his timing was perfect and he knew when to check in on us and when to leave us alone. He answered all our questions quickly and efficiently and I enjoyed hearing his stories. I am always delighted when I encounter superior service in a non-4 star setting. It's a pleasant surprise on the scale of finding a fifty dollar bill in your jeans when you do laundry.

My mom always says that any job worth doing is worth doing well. Or alternatively, "you do your best!" whenever I am about to embark on something new. When Le Be Fin eliminated their strict formal dress code policy (jackets and ties are no longer required) people were a bit shocked but Perrier was just adjusting to the changing fine dining landscape (everything is more casual these days--I have gone to the opera in NYC and sat next to people in t-shirts and jeans, not that I agree with being that casual but it is what is happening now). He is a shrewd businessman as much as he is a talented chef. At Georges', Chef Perrier has brought sophistication and elegance to casual dining--the food, wine and service are exemplary. He is bringing a four star mentality to casual dining and we are all luckier for it. 

Editor's Note: This review was originally featured on Radnor Patch in May