Pasta Fazool

Bustling around the dining room, an older Italian gentleman was dressed, like the other waitstaff, all in black. 

His glasses rested on his forehead, and he greeted his customers as if they were old friends arriving at his home for a dinner party.  And, in a way, they had. 

This is Mario, the owner of Pasta Fazool, which has been doing a lively business in Upper Moreland since January 2010. 

Mario hails from Umbria in Italy and called out a friendly hello as we settled in at the table. I don’t know if he actually recognized us or not, but he treated us like we were regulars, joking with our kids, asking us how we have been and making us feel welcome. 

We have, in fact, been here before, and were impressed by the caliber of food coming out of a small B.Y.O.B., located in a strip mall. 

Once you navigate the tiny entrance with tight swinging doors, you’ll find a single room eatery wallpapered with Latin phrases and hung with old-world photographs and movie-star headshots.  

Soft sounds of Italian singing completed the ambiance, but were soon drowned out by the gathering crowd. 

Our reservations were for 7:30 p.m. on a Friday night, which beat the considerable rush and afforded us the luxury of one of the four or five booths.

We were brought complementary bruschetta and rice balls as we looked over the menu. These were tasty, but the crusty bread and olive oil that arrived after we ordered were divine. The oil was wonderfully earthy, and it actually tasted like olives.

Simply put, it was the most delicious olive oil I have ever tasted.  It took enormous willpower to not eat it with a spoon. 

Instead, I saved my spoon for the pasta fazool soup ($4.95).  How could I not taste the namesake dish?! It was thick and hearty, full of ditalini pasta, white cannellini beans, and small pieces of carrot and celery. It only came in one size, which is fairly large, closer to a bowl than a cup. 

My husband had the Caprese Napoletano salad ($7.95), which had roasted red peppers and large green olives accompanying the classic mozzarella cheese and tomato. 

The tomatoes weren’t that great, but it is February, after all, so no one can be faulted for that. The soft mozzarella more than made up for it when it practically melted in my mouth.

Our second course arrived—the house specialty veal saltimbocca for me, and that night’s special cioppino for my husband. The chicken fingers we ordered for my young son while still deciding ourselves (in hopes that they arrive quickly, to soothe the savage beast) had yet to arrive. 

After reminding the server about them, he was apologetic and took them off the bill.

The classic saltimbocca ($17.95) was topped with spinach, sage, prosciutto and fontina cheese, and accompanied by mashed potatoes and buttery green beans.  The veal was tender, and the white wine sauce was lovely. 

The cioppino ($25.95) was served in a large crock, but was more of a pasta dish than a stew.  Linguini, mussels, clams, shrimp, calamari rings, imitation crabmeat and what my husband called “the best scallops he has ever eaten” were all mixed together in a thin tomato sauce that the kitchen can spice up upon request. My husband asked for it spicy, and they were happy to oblige. 

For dessert we chose the “White Chocolate Tempest” ($7).  Heck of a name, huh?  Tempting, for sure. 

It was a beautiful, if tiny, teacup constructed out of dark chocolate and filled with white chocolate mousse.  The mousse tasted delicious, sweet, creamy and light, but was chunky as if the chocolate cooled unevenly during mixing or wasn’t melted enough in the first place.  Also, the dusting of cocoa powder looked fancy, but we ended up inhaling it unpleasantly. 

After the meal, we were asked if we were interested in a complementary shot of limoncello. We declined, but it is this kind of gesture that so appeals to customers and keeps the dining room full.  And, it doesn’t hurt that the food is good. 

Make your reservations; Mario will meet you at the door. 

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Pasta Fazool earns 4 out of 5 Whisks for its old-world Italian food and hospitality.

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Second helping of information:

Location – 804 South York Road, Hatboro, PA 19040

Hours – Open daily from 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.

Phone – 267-282-5442

Website – http://pastafazool.net/index.html

Reservations – Recommended

On the Kids' Menu – No kids' menu, but chicken fingers or pasta are available; only lemonade, no juice, but the restaurant has children's cups with lids; high chairs are available; no changing table.