Fast Times at Thai Cottage

Every restaurant has its own pace.

There are sit-down restaurants that promote a leisurely, lingering meal over a succession of courses. There are quick-service restaurants that put together ingredients in minutes to satisfy diners on the go. And then there is in downtown Edmonds, a strange hybrid born of these two tempo extremes.

Positioned on Main Street in between and Mexican restaurant, Thai Cottage is a quick-working joint that does a brisk to-go dinner business. In the time that elapsed between my being seated and the server walking away with my order, I watched a to-go patron order and leave with her bagged meal. And I assure you I was not lingering extraordinarily long with the menu — we’re talking something on the order of seven minutes here.

I selected three dishes and the pleasant server informed me that each would be brought out as it became available. The kitchen got my orders out in supersonic terms and I soon had a table covered with food. Whereas the timeliness was impressive, the drawback was that it compelled me to cover a lot of ground before things went cold.

My starter (by an infinitesimal margin) was the satay chicken ($8.95), four plump bright yellow skewers of breast meat presented with tiny dishes of peanut sauce and diced fresh vegetable salad. The chicken was moist, infused with a marinade distinctly Far Eastern in tone. When sampled with the spicy-sweet peanut sauce and tangy salad, bits of cucumber, pepper and onion, the product was a collage of bright flavors striking all regions of the palate.

Following the satay, I ladled up a bowl of tom kah soup with prawns ($9.95) and breathed in its divine fragrance of coconut milk, lemongrass, chili and lime. I pine for tom kah , both broths characterized by spice and tang. Unfortunately in the case of Thai Cottage’s tom kah, the spice was a no-show.

I seek no glory when it comes to how many spice stars I can accrue; a solid “medium” is as spicy as I need my Thai food. Medium in the case of this tom kah, however, was downright wimpy. My disappointment was only somewhat assuaged by the plentiful tender baby button mushrooms and generously sized shrimp bathing in the bowl.

As those familiar with the Thai dining genre know, most typical Thai places offer a dish featuring a bed of spinach topped with meat and peanut sauce referred to as “Swimming Rama.” Thai Cottage’s version of the dish is tagged “Showering Rama.” The salient point here is that Rama had a good dousing, in this case with a spicier version of the same thick peanut sauce that accompanied my chicken satay.

Of note: For varying prices, Thai Cottage’s entrees and curries can be ordered with the diner’s choice of meats, seafood or tofu. I opted for pork in my Showering Rama ($9.95). Unlike the tom kah, the Showering Rama’s peanut sauce had a reasonable kick of heat that did approach the realm of “medium.”  However, while the sauce was superb as a dip for the satay, the heavy peanut blanket over the pork and spinach was overpowering. After a few bites, it seemed too sweet, too thick, and lacking a proper base of nuttiness.

Throughout my meal, patrons popped in to order and claim quickly prepared to-go orders while the two servers darted about to ensure the few occupied tables received food with lightning speed. Despite this bustling quality, the restaurant had a serenity to it.  A few wood carvings dotted the walls for a décor scheme that was pleasingly uncluttered. Soothing exotic flute melodies played softly overhead.

Though the food at Thai Cottage may not amaze, it’s adequate and reasonably priced. Grab a fast bite before catching a movie next door or leave with a to-go dinner in a matter of minutes.  For those who need some phad thai or green curry on the double, make Thai Cottage your to-go stop in downtown Edmonds.