Bon Appetit! Women's Book Club Descends on Le Grand Bistro Americain

Just before her death at 92, Julia Child released an autobiography co-authored by Alex Prud’homme entitled “My Life in France.” It details her remarkable journey with her husband, Paul Child, through several years living abroad in Paris, Marseilles and other destinations.

A local women’s book club chose the title as its March book selection because of Julia’s inspiring story and personality. She didn’t marry until she was 32, practically ancient at the time. And she managed to go from a Southern California girl with limited food exposure to a master of French cuisine purely by her wits and determination.

To celebrate this unusual woman, the book club, which regularly meets in member homes, chose to have dinner at our local Parisian escape, Le Grand Bistro Americain, in Carillon Point.

Though not quite as fashionably late as true Europeans, the group met at 7 p.m. I arrived early to sample some slippery Kusshi oysters at the raw bar. It was there that members Karee Oliver and Julie Barker found me finishing another appetizer, the Scallop Crudo.

The buttery texture of the raw scallops sensually slid across my tongue, until my palate was taken hostage by the salty fermented shoyu dressing that overwhelmed the dish. The poppy seeds sprinkled across were meant to add crunch, but felt a bit more like grit. I was self-consciously hoping none would lodge between my teeth.

Our friendly and helpfully opinionated server seated us at a long table in the front of the house just as member Marypat Meuli arrived. We meditated on the menu as our server told us what we should drink and left to fetch our various wines.

We were starting to think that the other three women might not show, but just as Karee and Marypat placed their appetizer orders, in came Nabila Lacey, Malia Karlinsky and Alison Corby. Alison and Karee ordered Chevre Chaud, two rounds of warm delightfully gooey goat cheese with bibb lettuce and hazelnuts. Marypat chose the Salade Maison. The bitter flavor of the stacked endive, which looked remarkably like a pile of whole calamari, nicely balanced the ripe roquefort cheese.

Those within earshot probably wouldn’t guess that ours was a meeting to discuss a book, because the club is not dogmatic about certain rules. For example, at any given time, only about half of the women have actually read the book. And, of the two or so hours that we meet, we probably average five to 10 minutes of conversation related to the chosen book. So conversation ranged from the usual, meaning kids, to what’s new with everyone.

As the appetizers were consumed and the entrees ordered, there were some book-related comments. Karee, who doesn’t generally finish any book selection, proclaimed this book her favorite selection in our one-year history.

“I enjoyed how it was written in Julia’s cadence,” Karee remarked. We all loved how we could hear Julia’s voice throughout the book.

When Julia and Paul first moved to France, they drove their giant blue Buick from the sea port down to Paris, stopping for lunch along the way. Julia’s first meal in France was a delicate fillet of sole with brown butter sauce. They washed the meal down with a bottle of wine and Julia’s appreciation for all things French began, including her mastery of the language.

Marypat’s entree was the most appropriate option for the night, reminiscent of Julia’s introduction to French cuisine. The Trout Almandine, a whole fillet with sliced almonds and heavenly rich brown butter sauce, is perhaps the best dish I’ve tasted at Le Grand.

Julie opted for the Petit Bouillabaise, a saffron-based seafood stew, though she pushed the rather large mound of rouille aside thinking it to be too much. Karee’s Onion Soup Gratinee -- French Onion Soup to the rest of us -- looked decadent with the browned cheese crust blanketing the crock. The soup was a little on the sweet side in both of our opinions, though as comforting as it should be.

Alison chose the Moules Marinieres, assured by our server that the mussels would be absolutely grit- and sand-free.

While consuming my oysters earlier, I asked the bartender what I shouldn’t miss on the dinner menu. He recommended the Duck Confit, a crispy-skinned leg quarter with a lentil, potato and frisee salad.

The rich, slightly greasy meat was on the stringy side, a bit of a disappointment. However, the salad was fantastic with a bright vinaigrette. Next time I want a $16 salad, I’ll order the Duck Confit.

Malia and Nabila shared a beautiful trio of cheeses served with what appeared to be a dollop of fig jam. Apparently, everyone was full because no one ordered dessert despite our server’s animated and exhaustive description of each item on the menu.

The evening was fun, a great change of venue for the book club. However, as we left Le Grand at 9 p.m. on a Tuesday night, one couldn’t help but notice that we were the only customers remaining. Perhaps no one has given Tuesday permission to be Parisian hot spot night yet.