March is the Time When Raw Oysters Shine -- And Your Education Begins

My first was a bloke named Kumamoto in a little place called Spring Hill. I remember the trepidation with which I approached that first bite. Would it be slimy, would it be gross, would I choke?

But then I reminded myself that people adore these slightly translucent little morsels. So I tipped my head back, slurped, and another oyster-lover was welcomed through the pearly gates.

Anthony Bourdain claims his first oyster was a “truly significant event” in his life. “I remember it like I remember losing my virginity,” he says Bourdain in his best-selling book “Kitchen Confidential” (2000, Harper Collins).

On one hand, oysters are pure and basic, tasting of the bay; still practically alive, having given up their ghost just seconds before being savored. On the other hand, eating an oyster is near the top of the pleasure heap. The texture silky, with a touch of firmness to tease the teeth.

Like many top-tier foods, oysters tend to be a very divisive food group. There are the die-hard oyster worshipers and the involuntary-shudder crowd.

If you haven’t yet given yourself over to this affordable local luxury out of fear, perhaps some knowledge will help tip the scales.

I recently sat down with  executive chef Pat Donahue, who treated me to an educational lecture on the seductively delicious mollusk known as the oyster.

In the U.S., we consume six main species of oysters: Lurida, Kumamoto, European Flat, Pacific, Eastern, and sometimes Chilean. Among those species are numerous varieties depending on the method used to grow the oysters and the specific bay in which they grow.

The Lurida, known commonly as the Olympia oyster, is the only oyster truly native to our waters. The 49er’s went crazy for the Olympia and by the 1920’s it had nearly disappeared because of over-harvesting and water pollution. It is making a slow, but steady recovery these days.

Though the smallest of the oysters I’ve sampled, the Olympia makes a very distinct impression. Chef Donahue likened it to rolling a piece of copper around in your mouth. If you’ve ever deeply inhaled a Puget Sound bay, imagine tasting that fresh briny smell while sucking on a penny.

The Kusshi is a great beginner oyster. Light in salinity and mildly sweet, it has a crisp finish akin to a cucumber. These also tend to be on the smaller size, though with a deep cup; perfect for those afraid of getting too much of a good thing in one bite.

Other Pacifics, of which the Kusshi is a member, thrive in our waters. They hitched a ride on the bottom of a trade ship from Japan, or were transplanted, and found that American life suited them quite well. Varietals are named things like Hama Hama, Baywater Sweet, Penn Cove Selects, Pickering Pearl, Stellar, Rainier, Gold Creek, Chef Creek and the relatively new Shigoku.

Hama Hama’s have a fairly high salinity and bay flavor with a firmer texture and some sweetness. Ted Furst of pointed out that his favorite oyster, the Stellar, possesses notes of watermelon rind. Oyster flavors can be easily plucked from a white wine flavor profile list; words like mineral, grassy, and bright come to mind.

And speaking of wine, it never hurts to have a crisp glass of white with your dozen half-shelled treats. Because March is “Oyster Month” at Anthony’s Homeport in Kirkland, several wines have been specially selected as good pairings for oysters. Bottles of these wines are half price when ordered during this month.

I sampled two local sauvignon blancs, but preferred the more mild 2009 fume blanc from Columbia Valley. Le Grand Bistro serves a very bright Tassarolo Gavi, its notable acidity pairs nicely with the briny oyster sweetness.

While pleasurably enjoying raw oysters next to your date is an easy way to feel more sophisticated, Anthony’s also offers a speedy slurp contest this month. At 6 p.m. each Friday in March, six contestants line up with hands behind their backs. Before them are nine freshly shucked oysters on the half-shell. The fastest slurper earns a gold medal, lunch entrees for two and a chance to compete for the Grand Oyster Champion title on Friday, March 25.

During the contest I witnessed, the gold medal went to Braxton Cleman who finished his nine oysters in about 10 seconds flat, beating out a couple of former champions rumored to be among the contestants. His method was to slurp everything first and swallow all at the end.

If you find yourself in the mood for a raw oyster sampling, your best bets in Kirkland are Anthony’s Homeport and Le Grand Bistro Americain for a consistent offering during the cold “oyster-friendly” months. By the way, Le Grand makes an excellent mignonette sauce to accompany their oysters which are only $1 apiece during Happy Hour.

Other places in Kirkland where raw oysters are served are , which serves Kusshis, Kumamotos and Pacifics, and occasionally , which features the light, crisp Shigoku.

Hopefully, armed with a little insider oyster intel, a good dose of curiosity, and a small measure of desire to attain that next level of sophistication you’ll find yourself telling your server, “I’ll take a dozen Kusshi’s; hold the cocktail sauce, please.” It will surely be a memorable way to start dinner.