Renton's Real Pizza & A Slice of the Past: Vince's

A full moon shone on Vince's Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria, and the Friday night parking lot was packed like Sardines. Arriving without reservations shortly after six o'clock, we were seated nearly in the kitchen as the dining room real estate was filled with convivial families and large groups.

Red and white tablecloths, raffia-wrapped Chianti bottles — check. The only thing that was absent was Mama in the kitchen and Dean Martin on the stereo. And I missed both.

Since we moved to Skyway six years ago, Vince's has become a staple in our life. Until March 2011, we ordered pizzas frequently from the Rainier Beach location, our standard request pulled up as soon as we supplied our phone number. And in a land without Pagliacci delivery, we grew to appreciate Vince's old school mom & pop-ism all the more.

This isn't Neapolitan-certified pie like the Mottola family's most recent delicious venture, Pizzeria Pulcinella, but Vince's hand-tossed brick-hearth-baked pizza is affordable and unique. Our average order for two was four 9"-10" small pies, since there is an ongoing special of ‘buy three pizzas of any size, get a fourth free,’ and it insures lunch leftovers for days.

Satisfy your carnivorous side with a Vince's special topped with a ‘fuggedaboutit’ combo of pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms and your choice of black olives or bell peppers ($13.80 small). Yo, olives not peppers, puh-lease. Of the Mottola unique pies, I recommend trying a Napoli topped with a puree of roasted red and yellow bell peppers, olive oil and garlic, mozzarella and mushrooms ($10.95 small).

I have to say that I grew up in New York and it's rare to have the opportunity to order a white pizza in the Northwest, one of my favorite types of pies and I thank Vince's for getting down-home garlicky. The Bianca is for true aglio lovers. Spicy "white" pizza, means no red sauce, just a sheen of olive oil, softened onion slivers, capital ‘g’ Garlic, oregano, mozzarella and parmesan ($10.95 small). And it's pungent enough that I get most of the slices to myself. Score!

Vince's, I want to love you head to toe, but I can't. In a great spaghetti red joint, you hang your hat on red sauce. I prefer your sweet old-school Ameretto Sour ($6). Maybe that's why your lounge is full.

Potato Croquettes ($7.75) tempt, but that golden crust is all that's got game. Veal Parmigiana ($16.75) is a rarity for me, and not worth the splurge here. Even our server warned us it could be tough at times. Out of two pieces, one fared better in terms of tenderness, hmm. Best to order Cannelloni di Magro ($12.25) off the Mottola Family Favorites: thick homemade pasta tubes that encase fluffy ricotta, garlic-sautéed spinach, pecorino and baked casserole-style in marinara sauce and mozzarella.

The crimes are in a watery minestrone with water-logged zucchini slices no amount of Parmesan can redeem. With a direct view of the kitchen, my husband watched salads being assembled on the line, chopped romaine and red cabbage straight out of a sealed plastic bag. They did toss in a few whole canned black olives. My choice of creamy pesto dressing was indeed creamy but devoid of basil flavor.

It's obvious that people love this place, and I'm glad. I full-heartedly believe that every meal doesn't have to involve gastriques, foams, and other culinary trends. And while a Moltano family member does walk the dining room, the heart in the kitchen seems missing. My feelings about reheated and oiled, meat-sauced penne in a gratin dish match Mona Lisa's smile. Debatable. Admittedly, it tasted better the next day once pasta and sauce had some time to mingle. Now that's Italian!

DINING ROOM HOURS

Sunday:

Noon - 10pm

Monday - Thursday:

11am - 10pm

Friday:

11am - 11pm

Saturday:

Noon - 11pm

LOUNGE HOURS

Sunday:

Noon - 11pm

Monday - Thursday:

11am - 11pm

Friday:

11pm - 2am

Saturday:

Noon - 12am

Vince's Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria

(425) 226-8180

2815 NE Sunset Blvd
Renton, WA 98056