Market Fare: Generations Make a Living on the Farm

Standing in the produce booth at the Tosa Farmers Market, Jason Hack is more interested in patiently discussing the tomatoes a shopper is choosing than in moving waiting customers through a transaction.

Hand-lettered signs next to him advertise “No spray, No fertilizer,” and "Everything is organic." The descendent of generations of farmers, Hack understands that caring for our food supply is the best customer service of all.

For over 75 years, the Hack family has farmed in Union Grove, supplying produce to areas in and around Milwaukee. The original farm in Kenosha comprised only seven acres, but in 1935 Theodore (Bud) Hack began working the 135-acre farm that his descendents still farm today. Bud and his son, Raymond, raised a wide variety of vegetables, which they sold at the historic Commission Row in Milwaukee’s Third Ward.

Today, the third generation of Hack farmers has joined the family business, supplying fresh produce to numerous farmer’s markets.

According to Hack, specialty crops at the farm include sweet corn and summer squash, along with plenty of other summer-time favorites. They also grow hard-to-find vegetables like okra and unique varieties of garden staples, including Japanese eggplant, Italian beans, purple potatoes and numerous types of heirloom tomatoes.

“We would like to begin growing all non-GMO [genetically modified organism] vegetables, starting with beans, tomatoes, peppers and various leafy green vegetables,” says Hack. If that aspect of the business goes well, he will add other varieties like eggplant, rutabaga, pear tomatoes and Napa cabbage.

Hack is investigating ways to extend the growing season. “We would like to install a greenhouse, in order for operations to continue through the winter, such as to grow our own starter plants,” says Hack.

Hack added chickens to the business two years ago. The flock started with 15 chickens; that has led to a current flock of over 60 laying hens, which produce almost 30 dozen eggs weekly. Hack's sells eggs at some area farmer’s market, although not yet at Wauwatosa.

“Our chickens are grass-fed, free-range and organic,” Hack says. “They are released in the morning and have all 135 acres to roam.”

Hack has noticed a recent shift in the relationship between customers and farmers.

“There has been a conscious effort on the part of shoppers to find fresh, organic, locally grown vegetables to both help themselves and also help support local community agriculture,” he notes.

He has also observed a demographic change. “Younger people (18 to 25) have been appearing at markets on a more frequent basis. (They) seem to be recognizing this was the way years ago,” he says.

When communities support farmers, he adds, everybody benefits. “With the added income, farmers are able to expand operations, feed more people and grow various specialty vegetables and fruits.”