Stella Alpina Osteria Shines Brightly in Burlingame

What's black, white (and "read" all over) and can fetch upwards of $300,000? Where can you find a natural ingredient so coveted its foraging is often kept secret? Where in the Bay Area can you experience the best application of said mystery ingredient?

Luxury. Indulgence. Decadence. Coveted. Words often associated with the infamous truffle. No, not the bite-sized, fudge-filled square of chocolate from See's Candy, but the truffle of the Italian Alps, the wooded French countryside and even parts of America's own Pacific Northwest.

Once dubbed “the diamond of the kitchen” by the 18^th-century French gastronome, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (founder of the genre of the gastronomic essay and definition of “gourmet”), the delightfully pungent and umami-empowering white truffle is indigenous to the Piemonte region of Italy, also not-so-ironically the hometown of Stella Alpina Osteria’s own Chef Matteo Ferrari.

Like foraging for truffles just beneath a shadowy forest floor, Stella Alpina Osteria is inconspicuously tucked away, just steps beneath Chapin Avenue and Primrose Road. Through an unassuming doorway lies a petite, storybook-quaint dining room of warm yellows and rich dark chocolate wood beams. A wall of windows lets in adequate sunlight; the hedges just beyond maintain adequate privacy.

The six-seat bar is as tidy as it is inviting, and despite being only a few feet from tables in the main dining room, feels the slightest bit private. Past the round tables in the back and beyond the kitchen doors is a second, smaller dining room, and adjoining the two is a heated patio perfect for private parties or summertime dinning al fresco.

The menu is poetry, with effortless rhythm from antipasti to dolci. With his rich and rustic Northern Italian meats, homemade pastas and an arsenal of family specialties, Chef Matteo is the gastronomic equivalent of John Keats. And the pièce de résistance is found in the overindulgent use of truffles in more dishes than not.

The most exquisite display and pillar use of truffles is in the Stella Alpina signature gnocchi. The plump buttery pillows stuffed with truffle paste and lathered in brown butter and sage are so decadent, even Keats himself might have been at a loss for words. Perhaps the intense perfection of the dish is a reason enough to keep it off of the menu, but listen to the server when the recommendation is provided.

Equally as rich as the signature gnocchi is the Coniglio Cacciatora - braised rabbit in tomato sauce with green olives and garlic - served over marscapone polenta. Generously portioned for such a flavorful meat, the rabbit is impressively tender on the bone, and the polenta is enjoyably gooey and balances the saltiness of the green olives and the acidity of the sauce.

A truly unique dish, the Rigatoni al Ragu di Maiale – rigatoni pasta smothered in smoked pork and sweet bell pepper sauce – is almost like an Italian take on American barbequed pulled pork. The intense smoky flavor is undeniable; the sauce is mildly acidic and sweet, with a strong peppery finish.

The Filetto alla Monferrina – grilled filet mignon accompanied by truffled mashed potatoes and sautéed wild mushrooms – is one of the better in Burlingame, consistently juicy and tender. With the truffled mashed potatoes, the Filetto is an authentic representation of Italian-style beef, and recalls an upscale twist on traditional steakhouse fare.

The wine list houses an impressive selection of both Italian and California wines, ranging in prices from affordable to value to steep (don’t you wish were organized that way?). The servers are substantially knowledgeable about the wines and provide tastes and comparisons, as well as a keen sense for value.

The service is comparable to traditional fine-dining, being seamlessly smooth, with excellent timing between courses. Polite and knowledgeable, yet authentically friendly, the servers dance through the dining room between the closely situated tables as if they have tirelessly rehearsed for their nightly performance.

A consistently full house and difficulty in getting a last-minute reservation make a table at Stella Alpina almost as coveted as the treasured truffle. Much like the “diamond of the kitchen," Stella Alpina Osteria shines brightly in Burlingame.