The Day I Learned to Surf

I’ve always wanted to learn how to surf. My dad grew up in landlocked Kansas and even though my mom grew up in Southern California, she had never touched a surfboard.

When I was a little girl in Indian Princesses, I went to Camp Surf with my dad, on Imperial Beach near San Diego.  I was excited to learn to surf but I was too scared of the waves. I really didn’t want to get tumbled by the ocean and end up washed up on the shore. Years later, I still wanted to learn to surf. After watching countless videos and hearing about the thrill and adrenalin rushes you get when surfing, I was ready to conquer my fears. Surfing and the ocean were calling me and it sounded like a huge invitation.

My dad and pro surfer, Matt King, started talking; Matt had been working across the street detailing our neighbor’s cars for many years. My dad told him that I was interested in surfing and wanted to go out for the Surf Team at . Matt introduced himself and gave me some exercises to help build
upper body and leg strength.  Matt recommended purchasing an 8-foot starter board at Costco. 

Matt also suggested pop-up exercises on the surf board while using the rail (the edges of the surfboard) to help me push up. We scheduled a lesson for July 1. After saying our: “Thank Yous,” I grabbed my mom and brother to go to and buy the board. When we got back I unwrapped it. I felt like it was Christmas in July!  I started doing all my exercises and by the time I was done I was exhausted. I started thinking of all the hard work it would be to maintain my goal, but I had a feeling it was going to be worth it!

On July 1, my dad woke me up at 5:45 a.m. so we could leave at 6 a.m. to meet Matt at 6:30 a.m. at for my first surf lesson.  Doheny is one of the best beaches to learn how to surf. The waves at Doheny break off shore and are typically 2 to 3 feet.

I was nervous and excited the whole ride to the beach.  Matt was already grabbing his gear when we pulled up. As soon as I unloaded my board Matt handed me some of his old booties to help with the rocks. When we made it to the beach Matt waxed my board and I was ready to hit the waves!

I was anxious but confident when I got on my board. The water was around 63 degrees and the sky was foggy and threatening with rain. Matt pushed me into my first wave and I just laid there getting used to the feel. On the second wave I felt the adrenalin coursing through me as I stood up and rode it all the way in! It was the most amazing moment and feeling ever! My dad and Matt were so proud of me, I was screaming with joy! After that, I rode a few more waves and I wiped out a few too, but it was an awesome surfing experience.

That’s "The Day I Learned to Surf."