Basking in Basque Cuisine in Palm Springs

The Basque area of Europe is on the border between Spain and France, on the Atlantic coast, and the Basque people reportedly have been around since prehistoric times. More Spanish- than French-influenced, Basque cuisine is not elaborate but the just-opened Tinto restaurant at The Saguaro hotel in Palm Springs takes the simple cuisine to irresistible heights.

Owned and operated by Iron Chef and James Beard Foundation award-winning Jose Garces, Tinto and its adjacent tequila bar El Jefe are unpretentious,
contemporary, and energetic rooms humming with well-trained, enthusiastic staff.
The 38-year-old Garces is Chicago-born of Ecuadorian parents, and learned to
cook from his mother and grandmother. He currently has one restaurant in
Chicago, one at The Saguaro in Scottsdale, and seven in Philadelphia, including the original Tinto.

I dined with a friend at Tinto last night and am still smiling. First, they give you a little folded paper menu that is somewhat mysterious, like an unexpected greeting card. As I opened mine up, I was impressed with its simplicity and artistry. The interior panels list Charcuterie & Cheeses, Sopas y Ensaladas (Soups & Salads) , Pintxos (“peen-chos” a.k.a.Basque tapas), Mariscos & Pescados (Shellfish & Fish), and Carnes y Verduras (Meats & Vegetables). Dish descriptions are very brief, but our personable server Ted elaborated on the details of seasoning and preparation of dishes we were interested in – which, quite frankly, is so much more engaging than reading the long list of ingredients and their origins that so many restaurant menus are bogged down with nowadays.

One of the problems with today’s food is that the “lite” foods out there that we think help us manage our weight don’t satisfy our longing for flavor, so we dash over to the local bakery for a giant cupcake or devour a 12 ounce steak to compensate.

At Tinto, most dishes are intended for splitting and the temptation is to order way more food than you can actually eat because the flavors sound so remarkable. Pace yourself! Trust your server when he/she suggests you take your time, try a couple of Pintxos, maybe some Jamón Serrano and Petit Basque cheese along with a glass of their delicious white Sangria. I’m not a big fan of anchovies, but I was feeling adventurous and ordered the Boquerones – marinated anchovies with pickled vegetables and pine nuts – and discovered I actually like anchovies. Well, these anchovies, anyway – but my attitude towards them has improved considerably. Figs wrapped in Serrano ham were a tasty sweet/savory surprise and the Txangurro a la Donostia, consisting of Dungeness crab, brioche, and shellfish jus, was deeply satisfying. Patatas Asturianas, described as “crispy potato, tomato compote, la peral [cheese] cream” was a delicious little pyramid of delicate, crispy potato nuggets.

Tinto (which is a light red wine) serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as Sunday brunch, and I can’t wait to indulge in all of them. Of course, it’s new and unusual, so it’s probably a good idea to make a reservation. The Saguaro hotel is at 1800 East Palm Canyon Drive. Tinto reservations: 760.323.1711.