De Schmire is a Petaluma Classic

You could stand on a corner and look around until a restaurant sign draws you in. But we've got a better idea. Each week, Petaluma Patch picks a restaurant in Petaluma, Novato or San Rafael that is worth checking out. This week's choice:

De Schmire

304 Bodega Ave., Petaluma; 707-762-1901

Overview: At a time when restaurants come and go in a flash, De Schmire has staying power. Over the past 30 years, it's had several owners, but the concept has stayed the same: French bistro favorites and robust American fare such as filet mignon, New York steak and rack of lamb all done with French flair, plus several seafood entrees. Many like the large portions and quaint atmosphere.

Décor: Located in a former grocery store, the brick exterior belies the old-country look of the interior. In fact, the décor is so old school that many new French bistros look like they may have copied it.

The Drinks: There more than 10 wines by the glass and over 15 bottles of red and white. Helpfully, considering the strict laws on drinking and driving, there is a nice half bottle of pinot noir. 

Appetizers: Not surprisingly, the usual suspects grace the appetizer side of the menu including: an authentic-tasting onion soup; escargot in garlic butter, local mussels steamed in a lemon-cream broth and the house specialty, talmousse, which is a baked puff pastry filled with Gruyere cheese, minced garlic, parsley, a dash of Dijon mustard.

Entrees: The filet mignon is napped with a béarnaise or creamy blue sauce; the New York has a garlic-herb butter sauce; and there is a burgundy sauce on the rack of lamb. Sweetbreads are crisply sautéed with a mushroom, caper merlot sauce; veal medallions come with morel mushrooms and cream sauce reduction; a chicken breast is overwhelmed by a mildly spicy curry sauce topped with bananas, seasonal fruit and garnished with toasted, sliced almonds; half a locally raised duck, comes with either an orange glaze or green peppercorn sauce. On the seafood side there are sautéed jumbo prawns, flamed with Pernod, plus salmon, sole and halibut, depending on availability. Interestingly, the mashed potatoes have cooked shredded carrots folded in.

Desserts: Seasonal with feature fruit available.

Service: Friendly and efficient.

Cost: $$$ (entrees $18 to $24)

Handicap accessible: Yes

Noise level: Conversations can be heard easily