Is your olive oil faking it?

The Bottom Line:

Your olive oil could be diluted with cheaper, harmful oils, and you’d never know it. Even so-called extra-virgin olive oil (EVOO) might not meet the quality standard that the current definition of the term requires.

The Details

By the late 1990’s, olive oil—often cut with cheaper oils, such as hazelnut and sunflower seed—was the most adulterated agricultural product in the European Union. Tom Mueller’s 2012 book Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil, shows that things haven’t changed much.

To know if an olive oil is 100% olives, an independent lab must test the oil. Even if those tests show that the olive oil is genuine, only a tasting panel of 8–12 experts recognized by the International Olive Council (IOC) can put the “extra virgin” seal of approval on the oil. But in 2010, tests by the UC Davis Olive Center found that 73% of imported olive oils labeled as “extra virgin” failed both the technical and tasting standards for that quality of oil.

So, how do you get the real McCoy? One way is to subscribe to the Fresh Pressed Olive Oil Club, where every single batch is tested by an independent lab to assure that olives, and only olives, are in the oil you buy. Another option is to buy your extra virgin olive oil at Costco (California only); the UC Davis Olive Center test gave a passing grade to its EVOO.

Tri-Valley residents are very lucky to have a second, local source for premium olive oil: Olivina, in Livermore. All of Olivina’s oils are certified as extra-virgin by the California Olive Oil Council through both chemical and taste testing. Normally, Olivina sells to high-end restaurants in the Bay Area, including The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards. On Thursdays, though, you’ll find the Olivina stall in the Livermore Farmer’s market (and Saturdays at the Pleasanton farmers’ market), with samples of a dozen different-flavored olive oils, ranging from peppery to fruity to neutral to grassy. I’ve sampled a number of these, and they’re stellar — without exception. I use the neutral-tasting oil for my clients’ dishes, such as the mayonnaise that goes into my garlic-ranch dressing and salmon mousse. Olivina’s prices are commensurate with their product quality.

None of this means that you have to rush out and buy the highest-quality olive oil available. Just be aware that the good stuff is out there.

Ari Cohn, aka the Paleo Sherpa (headsherpa@paleosherpa.com), is a paleo-oriented personal chef and certified diet counselor, serving clients in the Tri-Valley area. An expanded version of this article is on his blog (http://paleosherpa.com)