L'appart beckons with comforting California-French Food

L'appart Resto, the latest California-French bistro from the team who created Le Garage in Sausalito, opened quietly in late May in the former AVA space. While working out the usual new kid on the block issues L'appart offered dinner service, but they recently expanded their hours to include lunch on weekdays and brunch on weekends.

Executive Chef Olivier Souvestre understands his audience and his surroundings. The food is just enough California with an under-pinning of classic French technique and ingredients to attract a crowd. Local and sustainable products are used whenever possible and the menu shifts to accommodate what is in season.

The lunch menu takes some risk - it reaches for global flavors and leans into current culinary trends - not always for the better. The decadent lobster burger is layered with fresh apples and mâche, but it is the smoked paprika aioli and buttery, sesame-topped bun that strikes the palate. A smoked herring and pancetta sandwich also served with smoked paprika aioli lacked its artichoke pesto and spoke simply of smoke. The fig and red perella lettuce salad is loaded with local champagne grapes and Bleu de Basque cheese, but the salad lacked crunch despite its heirloom heritage. The shoestring fries are a must, however; crisp on the outside, crunchy on the inside, and impossible to stop eating.

Dinner is more classic French and less California trendy with big cuts of meat at center stage and minimal fusion and fuss on the plate. Thankfully, the evening focus on French cuisine means layers of flavor and a more straight-forward approach to the food. Gone is the smoked paprika. In is the roasted garlic and thyme in the obscenely rich bone marrow appetizer. Tender P.E.I. mussels are steamed with Noilly Prat French vermouth and Niçoise olives; seared Niman Ranch filet mignon rests on a nettle purée alongside potato confit and bordelaise sauce. Trends are on the dinner menu (hibiscus sauce for the lobster salad), but do not replace technique. A Breton native, Chef Souvestre is sure-footed in the flavors of home.

The dessert menu pulls no punches - one charlotte, one baba au rhum, one upside-down cake, and one sorbet on a recent evening - in addition to the French tradition of a cheese course as dessert. The wine list carries a well-edited selection of French and American bottles as well as bottled beer and French aperitifs. No spirits.

The staff is trained to take care of you as well as your children. The stroller was whisked away upon arrival and in its place came a high chair. A children's menu is not available, but any dish on the menu can be adjusted to suit your child's appetites. Numerous water glass spills were promptly cleaned up and the glass refilled. 

Warm red walls with grey trim mimic the colors at Le Garage but the space here feels more cozy. Tables are spaced well apart to keep intimate conversations private.  A wide patio is coolly shaded for warm summer days and heated at night.

Stop by L'appart for a casual lunch with the kids, or head out for a sophisticated evening  with or without the family. 

Brunch $8-$15, starters ranging from $6-$16 and entrees from $15-$32.

 636 San Anselmo Ave (near Tamalpais), San Anselmo; reservations (415) 256-9884 or on their website.  

Hours
Lunch  |   Monday - Friday  |   11:30am - 2:30pm
Dinner  |   Monday - Saturday  |   5:30 - 9:30pm
Weekend Brunch  |   Saturday & Sunday  |   10am - 2:30pm