Alchemy in the Kitchen

My husband Brian loves to experiment. He could be an inventor, with crazy hair (he often has wisps of hair sticking up). Or a scientist mixing potions in a dim basement; he loves concoctions and bottles and stuff.

It seems only natural, then, that he's been experimenting in the kitchen the past couple of years, reading all kinds of alternative literature, trying new and healthy recipes using produce from our backyard garden and the local farmer's market.

Now our kitchen counters are lined with bubbling glass jars. Sounds creepy, doesn't it? Maybe even a bit dangerous. But as it turns out, these jars contain something traditional and extremely healthful: Pickled vegetables. Not the vinegar- and sugar-soaked kind you buy in grocery stores, but naturally fermented ones. They come in an array of colors: deep purple (beets), bright orange (ginger carrots), green (cucumbers), yellow (lemon cucumbers), white (sauerkraut), and orange-red-and-white (kimchi). They're kind of pretty, all lined up in a row like that.

Until you open them.

Nice as they are to look at, the contents of some of these jars are, well, stinky. Particularly the sauerkraut and kimchi. The sour smell fills the room like a dead thing. In the beginning, I was wary of the kitchen. As soon as Brian opened one of those jars, I ran to the sliding glass door and yanked it open, gulping fresh air. I've since grown accustomed to the smell, thankfully. What's amazing is that these fermented foods taste way better than they smell. And – go figure – they are really, really good for you.

Lactic acid fermentation (or lacto-fermentation) is a centuries-old method of food preservation that allows things to naturally ferment. Lacto-fermented vegetables are both great tasting and a component of natural healing. Fermented foods and drinks are literally alive with flavor and nutrition. Their flavors are strong and pronounced: think aged cheeses, earthy miso, smooth wines, sourdough bread, beer, for example.

Eating lacto-fermented foods is self-sustaining – they are full of probiotics, helping with digestion, nutrient absorption, and even fighting cancer. Lactic acid bacteria (lactobacilli) prevent decay not only in food products but in the bowels as well. They have a harmonizing effect on the stomach: they strengthen the acidity of gastric juice when hydrochloric acid production lags, and reduce acidity when production is up.

They also encourage the function of the pancreas, which in turn stimulates the secretions of all the digestive organs. Of special importance to people with diabetes – or those watching their carbohydrate intake –is the fact that the starches and sugars in lacto-fermented foods have already been  broken down and do not make heavy demands on the pancreas.

Fermentation not only removes toxins from food, it creates new nutrients. As they go through their life cycles, microbial cultures create B vitamins, including folic acid, riboflavin, niacin, thiamin, and biotin. Some ferments function as antioxidants, scavenging cancer precursors known as "free radicals" from the body's cells. Lactobacilli create omega-3 fatty acids, essential for cell membrane and immune system function.

The Chinese have been fermenting cabbage for thousands of years, and prescribe sauerkraut juice for various physical ailments. In Korea and parts of Japan, a meal is not complete without kimchi. Captain Cook sailed around the world carrying barrels of sauerkraut, and not a single crew member was lost to scurvy (a vitamin C deficiency that killed large numbers of sailors in the 1700's).

Ancient Greeks understood that important chemical changes took place during fermentation – they called this change "alchemy."

Fermentation is everywhere, according to Sandor Ellix Katz, author of the book, Wild Fermentation. "Microscopic bacteria and fungi (encompassing yeasts and molds) are in every breath we take and every bite we eat," he writes. Microbial cultures are essential to life's processes, such as digestion and immunity. "We humans are in a symbiotic relationship with these single-cell life forms."

Before you go running to the store for a jar of pickles or sauerkraut, consider this: Industrially produced fermented vegetables tend to contain vinegar (which can lead to higher acidity), and are usually pasteurized, killing all the good bacteria and robbing us of their beneficial effects. If you don't know of a source of naturally fermented foods, it's best to make your own – and it's easy to do (just ask my husband!).

Make sure you use the best quality organic vegetables, sea salt, homemade whey, and filtered or pure water. Lactobacilli need plenty of nutrients to do their work, and fermentation will not proceed if the vegetables are deficient. Simply wash and cut up the vegetables, pound them briefly to release the juices, mix them with salt and herbs or spices, add some whey, then press them into an air-tight container.

Salt inhibits putrefying bacteria until enough lactic acid is produced to preserve the vegetables for many months. Homemade whey is rich in lactic acid and lactic acid-producing bacteria, and acts as an inoculant, reducing the amount of time needed for sufficient lactic acid to be produced to ensure preservation.

It only takes about two to four days for vegetables to ferment at room temperature. After that, store the jars in a cool dark place. (Note: refrigeration is not necessary; however, if you like your pickles cold, or if the vegetables get to a certain stage and flavor that you like and you want to slow down the fermentation process, you may want to refrigerate at that point).

Lacto-fermented vegetables increase in flavor with time - according to experts, sauerkraut needs at least six months to fully mature. But they can also be eaten immediately after the initial two to four days. You can experiment by sampling every few days to see how the flavor and consistency changes, and find out what your preference is.

Finally, serve your lacto-fermented vegetables as condiments; they are most healthful if eaten in small amounts on a regular basis, rather than larger amounts sporadically.

For recipes and more information, check out these great resources: Making Sauerkraut and Pickled Vegetables at Home by Klaus Kaufmann and Annelies Schoneck; Wild Fermentation by Sandor Ellix Katz; Nourishing Traditions by Sally Fallon (a fabulous book on living healthfully – one of our favorites!); and the website: www.wildfermentation.com.