Review: Franco Ristorante

Franco is not your average Italian restaurant. Although the upscale eatery lists some conventional dishes such as stuffed shrimp, ravioli and chicken on its menu, the results are anything but typical, as I discovered during a recent visit for lunch.

I had not dined at this location since it was known as Capers many years ago, so I was not sure what to expect. The dining room has a wall of windows that flood the room with natural light and there is a separate bar area and a room for private parties. The space is decorated in warm tones of deep yellow and green, with white tablecloths and dark wooden furniture.

I knew we were in for a treat when the server placed a plate of olives, crispy toast and fresh bruschetta in front of us, in addition to a bread basket. A restaurant that's eager for its customers to taste its offerings before an order is placed is a good sign.

My friend and I each ordered the house salad ($7). Salads here are a la carte and quite large. The delicate baby mixed greens arrived tossed with a lemon vinaigrette, which was refreshingly tart and delicious.

Our entrées wowed us with their presentation. The Shrimp Stuffed with Crabmeat ($17.50) were meticulously arranged around a circle of wilted spinach nested on rice and vegetables. I almost didn't notice the smooth layer of cream sauce underlying it all. The shrimp were perfectly cooked and nicely paired with the delicate sauce and tasty crab stuffing. The freshly wilted spinach, one of my favorites, was a nice complement.

The Chicken Scarpariello ($16) was plated on a rectangular dish, which gave the meal a contemporary stylish look. The stuffed breast and leg were flanked by sautéed escarole and homemade mashed potatoes. This roasted chicken was glazed with a spicy pepper and white wine sauce and stuffed with tasty sausage.

After already consuming more than my usual sandwich for lunch, we decided to split an order of tiramisu ($7). Once again, the presentation was flawless, and the creamy mascarpone dessert was decadent with a hint of coffee in the layer of sponge cake.

Franco's has a variety of choices for lunch, which is slightly cheaper than the same offerings on the dinner menu. Particularly enticing were the California Grill ($11.50), a panini with grilled zucchini, eggplant, Portobello mushrooms, roasted peppers, asparagus and avocado spread; Duck Ravioli ($15), whole wheat ravioli stuffed with duck and provolone cheese in a buttery sage sauce; and the Roasted Rack of Veal ($19.50) encrusted with black pepper and Parmesan cheese, laced with a merlot wine reduction and served with sun-dried tomatoes, mashed potatoes and wilted spinach.

Franco's has friendly attentive service and is busy, even during a weekday lunch. This is not a place I would bring my children because most of the tables around us were filled with business people meeting for lunch.

Not to mention the prices. Although there are sandwiches available, expect to pay top dollar for this gourmet experience. We spent $60 for lunch before the tip with no alcohol. But it was worth every penny.