Photo Gallery: It's Game Time at Lino's

It’s Super Bowl weekend and one can be assured that the busiest place in Durham is Lino’s, an Italian specialty deli.  Owner Lino Aparo and his crew make giant grinders, stuffed breads and wings for one of America’s biggest food celebrations. The work here begins well before most are awake on a Saturday morning as Lino starts early making over 40 pre-ordered stuffed breads.  At nearly noontime, he’s finishing up that task and moving on to the next.  It’s the best time of the day to come into Lino’s as trays of fresh food are being laid out for the customers to peruse.

The work pace moves rapidly today, although Lino suggests that every Saturday is this busy.  Today’s staff of nearly 15 dances around each other, all with defined purpose. Some lift tray’s heavy with food, others slice cold cuts and trim meats while some stir spices into simmering pots. It’s a well-oiled machine.

This small local business may be a picture of a thriving American dream, but it’s roots stem from Sicily where Lino’s parents, Maria and Salvatore, come from.  It’s virtually impossible to enter Lino’s without noticing them hard at work. They are at the very heart of the establishment sharing smiles and adding culinary magic to every dish created. 

Maria works a huge bowl full of fusilli with sun dried tomatoes, broccoli and spices into a delicious pasta salad. Throughout the hour, she is handed dish after dish to finish off with special recipes passed down from her mother. By the time she completes the pasta salad, it is brimming with colorful vegetables and flavors, ready to be presented to the customers behind the counter.  She smiles and recalls, “Momma taught us everything when we were little. All the recipes are in my head.”  She thinks fondly of how she and her twin sister never watched TV, rather, cooking was everything.  For Lino, it’s his mother’s lasagna that has often inspired him and a meal that he looks forward to.  

While the food brings the customers back time and time again, it’s the vibrant personalities that make Lino's a pleasure to visit. Salvatore’s friendly smile can always be seen as he peeks his head over the meat counter. Somewhere between the breadcrumbs and the measuring scale he can be seen waving to customers. Amy at the deli counter works with lightening speed and in no time, will make you one of Lino’s most popular sandwiches, the Italian combo or chicken cutlet grinder.  Meanwhile, long time employee Erik gathers trays being readied for a catered event. Ramo, a retired market owner who just couldn’t stay retired, proudly trims pounds of chicken, knowing that the food’s he prepares, “Will feed every kid in town”.

While most in the area have discovered this gem, there is always something new to try.  There are few places in Connecticut where you can find bread from Arthur Avenue, LaSalle’s, A&M, JJ Cassone’s , Alberts of Meriden and Mozzicato De Pasquales bakeries.  It’s here that you can catch up with local friends while waiting for your sliced cold cuts.  Also, head to Lino’s to get a refill of your favorite olive oil or grab a chocolate covered cannoli after a long day.

Lino’s will have special hours on Super Bowl Sunday from 7am to 2 pm as kick off nears. Regular hours are Mon-Friday 7am to 7pm and Saturday 7am to 6pm. www.linosmarket.com.