Gray Goose Tavern On The Loose in Southport

Flip on the TV, open up the paper, or fire up your computer and you're bound to come across a story about the floundering economy. It seems to be everywhere, that is unless you are at the Gray Goose Tavern. The gloom and doom of CNBC is nowhere in sight at this booming restaurant, which opened last Thursday in the space formerly occupied by The Wine Knot. Friday night, the restaurant's second night, was packed with a crowd of sophisticated adults who didn't seem to mind the long wait (at least an hour and a half at 7:15.) I was impressed by their stamina - Fridays are tough for me after a long week - and I wasn't sure I wanted to stand outdoors with the black clouds (and storm watches) looming. I decided to try again another day and returned Sunday evening for dinner. It turned out to be a great way to beat the Sunday "return to the work week" blues.

The Gray Goose Tavern is easily recognizable. Just look for the black-and-white striped awning on the 100-year-old white building. Sure, it's right below Interstate 95, but you'll never hear a stitch of traffic once inside this charming place. Inside, it's kind of like New England meets Paris. Reclaimed barn siding is used throughout the room, giving it a distinctly Yankee sensibility, but decorative touches, like a pressed tin mirror, marble-topped bar, and swirly metal railing give it a slightly French feel. Cedar-planked tables and low bistro-style chairs add to the casual elegance of the space. The stone fireplace makes me want to come back on a cold wintry day, while the stone patio, with tables and high-tops for cocktails, is ideal for warmer months. Everything is cute - even the black-and-white bathrooms with their rustic French style are a welcome surprise.

Make no mistake about it - this place is tiny. There are just nine tables inside, while the bar seats 10. Outside, the patio seats 30. No wonder the wait was so long. There's definitely a buzz about this place. Is it because it's new in a landscape starving for new spots or is it because the guys behind this place have some serious notches in their belts?  Probably a little bit of both. After all, it's run by Kevin McHugh, the former co-owner of Match and The Loft Martini Bar in Norwalk, and the Little Pub in Ridgefield, and Tommy Febbraio, formerly of Spazzi. Whatever it is, the Gray Goose already feels like a neighborhood spot after just a few days.

The Goose offers a mix of red-blooded American fare, bistro favorites and haute comfort food. You'll find burgers, lobster sandwiches, and macaroni and cheese dressed up with lobster right alongside roast chicken, salmon and pasta dishes. The menu is divided by small plates, large plates, flatbread salads and sandwiches. The flatbread salad with goat cheese offered a perfect balance of crispy and creamy. Diver scallops were perfectly cooked, while the chicken gnocchi was melt-in-your-mouth good. Two of the most popular dishes include the tuna taco and the lobster sandwich, and seafood was the base for many of the large plates as well. The menu remains the same, with price adjustments, at lunch and dinner.

Despite being open for less than a week, the service was spot-on. While many places need to work out the kinks in their first few weeks, the staff at the Gray Goose did a terrific job. There were no obvious speed bumps and the meals were brought out in a timely fashion. The staff is young, attractive and friendly without being too casual.

The Gray Goose is definitely designed for an adult crowd. There is no children's menu, and while older children were spotted on Sunday night, it's not a place you want to drag your toddlers.

Prices range from $10 to $16 for burgers, $10 to $12 for flatbread salads and sandwiches, and $16 to $20 for main courses.

The Gray Goose is open for lunch and dinner daily. They do not accept reservations, so go early or expect a wait.

Gray Goose Tavern, 246 Old Post Road, Southport, 203-292-8779.