Thali's Chef and Owner Talks About Food With Style and Being More Than 'Just Curry'

This past May, Prasad Chirnomula, the chef and owner of New Canaan's Thali Regional Cuisine of India, celebrated his restaurant's 10-year anniversary. New Canaan Patch recently caught up with Thali's charismatic Chef/Owner Prasad Chirnomula, and despite his crazy schedule, Chirnomula was all smiles while he spoke about where he's been and, maybe more importantly, where he's headed.   

But first, a bit of background: Prasad was originally encouraged to follow in his family's footsteps and become a doctor. Well, that obviously didn't happen. Upon graduating from the Food Craft Institute of Poona in India, he arrived in America in 1985 and began introducing Indian cuisine to Fairfield, Litchfield and Westchester Counties, operating seven restaurants. Eager to create more modern and globally influenced cuisine, Prasad opened his first independent restaurant in New Canaan and soon thereafter sold all of his other restaurants to his partners.

Patch: What drew you to opening a restaurant in New Canaan?

Prasad Chirnomula: Great demographics, a well-travelled clientele, very cosmopolitan, close to New York and a beautiful building. New Canaan appreciated international cuisine and they also take home a lot of food.

Patch: How was Indian cuisine initially accepted and perceived in New Canaan when you first opened – and how has it evolved throughout the years?

Prasad: Initially it was one of the most anticipated restaurants to open in New Canaan. I made one mistake though. I originally opened as "Tandoori" because I figured I was already known from my past "Tandoori" restaurants. But the new restaurant offered more Asian and fusion inspired food than Indian and that kicked back in my face. We started off strong. People complimented what we were doing, saying, "Wow, it's as cool as Vong", and that we had the feel of a Manhattan restaurant. But guests were expecting authentic Indian food—like Tandoori!

I re-visited the food and beverage and the service part and re-opened the doors as Thali, Regional Cuisine of India. Why regional cuisine? I thought of offering something different than the usual Northern Indian Cuisine. 'Not just curry,' was my battle cry and I introduced some very rewarding dishes and suddenly it became a destination.

At this time, all I can say is that we are very well received and that gave me the seed money to open four other Thali restaurants, with more on the way.

Patch: What are some of the more unique aspects to your restaurant, food-wise and stylistically?

Prasad: [Laughs] How unique can an Indian restaurant be; located in an historic building dating back to 1911? The building was originally built for Union Trust. The space has high ceilings, rich metals and a cascading waterfall floating atop the dining room.

Food-wise, I have continuously introduced a very different style of food from various regions of India. The food is also presented stylishly. My inspirations come from my travels throughout India and London and of course, many of the popular restaurants in the states. Style wise I am a sucker for fine china. I use Villeroy & Boch, Steelite, Rosenthal, Royal Dalton and some great looking porcelain from Japan in all my restaurants.

Patch: What are some of the most popular dishes—top sellers—and why do you think they are so special?

Prasad: Andhra Chicken Curry, Konkan Samundri (jumbo lump crab), and breast of local duck with wilted spinach—Indian chilies and cabernet sauce are wonderful dishes. Gassi's from Bangalore: another unique style of sauce made out of coconut and roasted coriander, with chicken or prawns, are popular because they are very bold with real Indian flavors and are generally not found in the neighborhood restaurants. Of course the most popular and simplistic is the chicken tikka masala (tomato and cream base) made popular from the Indian kitchens of America and England as this dish you may not find in India. Another great dish at the restaurant is a side dish of crisp okra.

Patch: Do you still feel that people have misconceptions about Indian cuisine? What are they?

Prasad: I think I have overcome the cry of 'not just curry' and one of these days that will be on my cookbook cover, when and if I ever finish. In general, the misconception of this kind of food is "hot", "curry" or "oily" food. All are not true. I liked when The New York Times recognized my restaurant, rewarded it with excellence and gave a glowing three stars with a head line that read: "An education in Indian cuisine," and with a quote, "Prasad Chirnomula is determined to change what we think about Indian food."

Patch: What's the most effective way to introduce your food to new customers in New Canaan?

Prasad: Having a kids' menu… just kidding! What works for me is to introduce myself to the people of New Canaan and the wonderful surrounding towns by doing charity events, cooking classes, chef demos and word of mouth—and maybe by getting written up in New Canaan Patch!

Patch: New Canaan has become quite a restaurant destination throughout the years. How would you like to see New Canaan restaurants promoted?

Prasad: I have restaurants in several towns and we participate in lots of events including: food and wine festivals, sidewalk sales, farmers' market cooking demos, restaurant weeks and charity events. Don't be surprised if you see me cooking at the train station one night and offering samples to the many commuters.

Nothing would surprise this writer when it comes to what Chef Prasad Chirnomula has up his sleeves next. He currently has Thali restaurants in Ridgefield, two in New Haven (one on the Yale campus), and Westport. He recently departed from his signature Indian cuisine and opened "ChaoChi, American Eatery & Bar" in Sandy Hook, CT, and will be introducing Oaxaca Kitchen, a Mexican restaurant and tequila bar in New Haven in September.