Get on Board the Escalera: La Sorpresa Transports Colombian Cuisine

In Colombia, la escalera is the signature open-air bus bursting with passengers in colorful attire and, on its upper level, bananas and pigs bound for market

Over at 61 Cedar St. in Norwalk, a giant model of an escalera is perched on the clay tile roof of the little restaurant, a name that means "surprise" (and in this case, a pleasant one).

Just as remote villages in Colombia are linked by this folkloric mode of transport, here in Norwalk it brings diners to the cuisine and cultural traditions of that South American country.

Folk art mounted on the walls of the dining room repeats the theme, with scenes of an Escalera at a village square, and clay tiles protruding from the ceiling.

The other day, Jhon Gomez was presiding over the busy take-out counter as loyal customers conversed with him in rapid-fire Spanish, ordering meat-filled tamales and bunuelos—round rolls that are baked on the premises, as are all pastries and corn breads that La Sorpresa sells.

"Our customers come from everywhere—white, black, Chinese, as well as Latino," Gomez said. "They love our colors and style, and we serve lots of food that is very good—very good flavor."

"Some come here to practice their Spanish," he said, a pursuit the friendly staff encourages.

Colombian music plays in the background, creating a festive atmosphere, and three flat-screen TVs are continuosly tuned to soccer matches beamed in via the satellite dish that shares the roof with the escalera.

Jhon and his brother Ivan, the owner, are among the nine children of  Maria Georgina Correa, the mother they adore who lives not far away.

Correa worked so hard at an eatery in Medellin, Colombia, to provide for her large family that when Ivan started his own restaurant in Norwalk, he decided to use that restaurant's name.

La Sorpresa's takeout counter also serves as a concession stand for Colombian trinkets, canvas shoes and snacks. Four stools face the street, barely visible through a dozen giant hanging baskets of cascading pink petunias.

The hearty breakfast fare provides most of the protein and calories you need to get through the entire day.

La Sorpresa's Calentado mixo features beef, rice, beans, pork corn griddle case and hot chocolate ($9). Desayuno la sorpresa (the house breakfast) is equally filling, with corn griddle, scrambled eggs, rice with meat and hot chocolate ($8).

The most popular dinner entree is Bandeja paisa with beef, cracker ring pig, rice, beans, plantains and avocado ($11).

Chirrasco is the top entree on the menu, with grilled steak in chimichurri sauce, with rice, plantains and beans ($17). The whole-fish entrees are equally hearty.

Wine and beer, including imported varieties, are available. Desserts include a plate of figs and cheese and caramel flan. Ample parking is available.

La Sorpresa serves breakfast, lunch and dinner from 6 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. seven days a week.  (It is also open for parties and catering.)