Manolo Makes Good

There’s a whole different feeling now when you walk into 8 Church Lane.

The place has energy.

You might remember it as Zest, which had been in the location for a few years. Headed up by Pedro Garzon, formerly of Barcelona, it was re-christened as the more vibrant Cafe Manolo this past June, offering Mediterranean dishes with primarily locally-sourced foods.

Unlike most Westport restaurants, there are actually people dining past 10:30 p.m. on a Saturday night. I’ve had local bistros lock me out at 9:45 p.m., while guests were still inside, so this small discovery was a thrill.

Manolo has also added a raised, eight-person communal table with leather barstools — a sociable touch. Carpeting covers the floors – a small change with a big impact on what used to be a rather stark room. The place feels much warmer, softer, more welcoming. 

One interesting feature at Manolo is that they offer most dishes on the small menu in either half or whole portions, so you can cobble together a tasting-menu type meal if you wish. Both sizes are generous. The half entree features a 5-ounce portion of protein. The large is a very filling 10 ounces. Even the smaller salads were plenty for an appetizer.

The Slow Roasted Beets were delicious, served with mache greens, blue cheese and hazelnuts – a bit of an unusual twist. The only drawback was that the cubed beets were unevenly cooked: some were just right, others underdone.

The squash soup, on the other hand, knocked it out of the park. Butternut squash combined with apple, cinnamon and nutmeg came together as a warm, toasty puree with a nice balance of sweet and tart. It was autumn on a spoon.

While they don’t serve you much more than the main attraction (scallops, dorade, lamb shank), the entrees were equally delicious. Vegetables (grilled asparagus, pommes frites, sauteed spinach) were available as side orders.

Manolo’s Organic Scottish Salmon was gamier and more flavorful than most farmed salmon. The fish sat atop orange and white glazed carrots – grown, as is much of their produce, at a local farm. The smaller, 5-ounce portion was more than satisfying. Served sliced, the duck was tender and flavorful, enhanced by the sherry and sherry vinegar reduction. Whimsically, the chef sprinkled bright pomegranate seeds around the plate. The menu changes daily based on ingredient availability.

The most spectacular dish was the Truffled Soft Golden Polenta. It was so rich and creamy it would have been at home on the dessert menu. When the manager Matt Davies wandered around the dining room from table to table, I asked him what he used in the dish. When even the manager says, “You don’t want to know,” I really should listen. But naturally, I didn’t, so the answer was: butter (lots, I’m assuming), cream (ditto), shaved black truffles and an extra-fine white corn meal. The polenta was so smooth it had absolutely no grit. Perfection.

I started to notice a mini trend: everything served in a little pot was outstanding-- the squash soup, the polenta, the chocolate pot de crème – which was as dense as a rich fudge. Order something that arrives in a ceramic crock, and chances are you’ll be pleased. 

There was just one thing I didn't love about the restaurant. Our server referred to my dining partner and me as "you guys," which happens to be my pet peeve. But maybe that's just me.

I suspect with Manolo, chef Garzon’s intention was to create a new space where people want to pull up a seat at the big table, linger over polenta and share carafes of wine with friends old and new. If so, he’s succeeded.

Café Manolo

8 Church Lane

203/227-0703

www.cafemanolo.com

Hours of Operation:

Lunch, Weds. – Sat., 11:30 – 2

Dinner, Tues. – Sun. 5:00 pm – close

Major credit cards accepted.