Business Q&A: Coney Island Grill a Family Tradition Since 1926

ST. PETERSBURG - Old St. Petersburg still exists at the Coney Island Grill, at 250 Dr Martin Luther King St. North.

This St. Pete institution was opened in 1926 by Peter Barlas, a Greek immigrant, who opened the restaurant after several attempts to settle in the Northeast.

He charged a nickel for a hot dog. Chili dogs were the signature item on the menu.

Not much has changed over the years. Coney Island Grille is now run by Hank Barlas, Peter's son, who was born nine years after the restaurant opened.

Hank comes in every morning to set up shop and handle the food preparation.

Coney Island Grill opened at a different location downtown, and moved to its current spot in 1950.

Hank's brother, George, was a co-owner until he passed away several years ago; Hank's son, Peter, will soon take a share of the ownership.

Chili dog with mustard and onions reign supreme (just don't ask for catsup). The chili is made from a recipe developed by Hank's father; it remains a well-kept family secret.

Other favorites are the cheeseburger, chili burger and of course the shakes. The restaurant takes its name from New York's Coney Island, home of Nathan's Famous, a favorite of Hank's father when he first came to the United States.

One step into the restaurant is a step into the past, with classic diner booths with old photos of ballparks, movie stars and icons. Another tribute to the past is the current menu prices. A chili dog sells for $1.72, a hamburger deluxe for $2.92, grilled ham & cheese sandwich for $3.64 and shakes for $3.

Of the eight employees, Jerry Lovely (or Jerry R. Lovely, I are not as Hank refers to him) has been there the longest with 30 years of service. Most have been there 20 years or more. Coney Island Grill is open from 10 am to 6:30 pm Monday through Friday, Saturday 10 am to 3:30 pm. and closed on Sundays.

Q. What's kept Coney Island Grill in business for so long?

A. We have customers who've been coming in here since they were kids and as a matter of fact we had one who died just a couple months ago who'd been coming in here since 1926. We've also got another one whose been coming here that long too. He doesn't come that often because the problem is people that age can't eat this kind of food anymore, like me, I'm having trouble with it but I love it, that's the killer.

Q. Do any of the baseball players from the past or present ever come in?

A. Don Zimmer comes in all the time. He's not supposed to be eating here either but he's been coming in. Last year he was taking [the chili dogs] to [Rays Manager Joe] Madden but I don't know that he still is or not. Madden's wife might have put him on a stricter diet, who knows. Mel Torme was in one time and one of our former governors was a customer too.

Q: Why is there a five cent charge for catsup?

A: Because it ruins my chili.

Q. Any truth to the rumor that your waitresses don't hesitate to put customers in their place?

A. Oh yeah, but they're mostly gone by now. I liked it. The customers seemed to like it too. I had one waitress who used to say to a guy as he was ordering, 'shut up, sit down and eat what I put in front of you' and give him the same thing he always ate. People are different now, much more sensitive. Even more than they were eight or nine years ago.”

Q: Have there been any notable incidents in the restaurant's history?

A. There are so many. The reason we don't have French fries is that the deep fryer caught on fire one time with my dad and he through it out the door – after he got the fire out of course – and we haven't had fries since.

Q. hat are some significant changes you've seen over the years?

A. When we opened this place hot dogs were a nickel and you could buy 20 of them for a dollar. A brand new automobile was about $395 too.

Q. How has the location changed?

A. It's not in the central area anymore. In the old days the Festival of States Parade used to come straight up 9^th Street here right by the store. Central Avenue between 4^th and 9^th was pretty much the center of town and that's changed a lot. We've still got people coming in bringing their grand kids and great grand kids in. Sometimes you have four generations sitting at two tables over there.