Business & Tech
Schmaltz: Classic, Memorable Jewish Delicatessen
Corned beef heaped high, bagels and a smear. What's not to like about this Jewish deli right here in Naperville?

Food is a memory maker. And if you've lived in the New York City area, you probably have lots of Jewish deli memories — late Sunday morning brunches, rushed but delicious deli sandwiches and quick stops for a coffee and a smear (cream cheese on a bagel).
In Naperville, you can go to Schmaltz Delicatessen to create those memories!
Located on North Naper Boulevard on the northeast corner of Ogden Avenue and Naper, Schmaltz features décor that's typical of a NYC deli. There's a crazy quilt of mismatched linoleum floor tiles, a looong, fully stocked deli case and a zip line for sending orders to the back. The guys behind the counter have just the right amount of attitude and, of course, there's Dr. Brown's soda. (For you hardcore deli fans, YES, they have Cel-Ray soda. And, yes, transplanted Easterners in Naperville are smart; it's not a big seller.)
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Enough about the atmosphere; it's the food that's important.
Most important is the corned beef and pastrami. It's very good — lean and flavorful. "Overstuffed" is their regular sandwich and the meat is heaped high. Think about sharing a sandwich or opting for the "Almost Overstuffed," an apt description.
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The #11, the Adams, is truly "an amazing combo of warm corned beef and pastrami stacked on marble rye with spicy mustard." Very, very yummy and flavorful. Hint: If you're a true deli fan, ask for more mustard; Schmaltz worries too much about offending with extra kick.
My favorite is the #6, Brooklyn Beef — a brisket sandwich. They serve it on a soft Italian beef roll. Skip the roll and ask for one of their delicious breads. I favor the dark rye — and, again, ask for extra horseradish sauce. Brisket sandwiches are meant to help clear out the sinuses!
Of course, Schmaltz has baked bagels (nine different kinds) and cream cheese. If you're a deli fan, their locally prepared lox or smoked salmon is great — salty and flavorful.
Sorry, but I have to quibble with the chicken soup. My grandmother, she is rolling over in her grave! It's bland, lacking a full-blown chicken taste. Skip the soup and savor the pickles. They're half sour, very crisp and crunchy, and no pucker face is produced.
Yearning for NYC deli? Need a corned beef fix? Want more details about the menu? Hasten to Schmaltz! I may be a goy, but Schmaltz reminds me of when I worked in New York City. Long live those Jewish deli memories!