Spellbound at Newton's Table

Local Chef Dennis Friedman delights diners with appetizing alchemy in Bethesda's posh new restaurant, Newton’s Table. His culinary pedigree is one of the best in the area, so it’s no surprise that diners in-the-know have great expectations when they make a reservation.

Open since April, Newton’s Table took over the space formerly occupied by Rock Creek at 4917 Elm Street. Friedman has explained, in prior interviews, the inspiration behind the name comes from his childhood moniker "Newton" given to him by his father. There has been a lot of excitement around this opening, because the Walt Whitman graduate received critical acclaim at , his previous restaurant in Potomac. Friedman worked in several well-known American restaurants, like Restaurant Daniel in New York, Michel Richard Citronelle and Kinkaid’s in Washington. 

What you’ll find upon entry is a small restaurant, divided into a bar and lounge area on one side, and dining on the other. Prepare for an intimate dining experience -- when seated at certain tables, you’re almost touching elbows with the neighboring tables. Not a familiar feeling to Bethesda diners, since very few restaurants in this area position tables so close together.

Although feeling like you’ve been stuffed into the middle airplane seat isn’t a great first impression, the wait staff works very hard to provide solicitous, friendly and sincere service. Everyone--from the receptionist, bus staff and server--speaks to guests directly and personally; although such closeness forces diners to eavesdrop whether they care to or not.

Perhaps part of the problem was I decided to try Newton’s Table during busy Bethesda/Chevy Chase Restaurant Week, so I could sample many dishes at once. The $30 price is a bargain when entrees range in price between $22 and $36. During Restaurant Week, Newton’s Table offers three generously-portioned courses, and includes many of their signature dishes.

After passing over the pricey wines by the glass (kudos for including a sparkling wine), sweet onion focaccio was served to us with a bowl of aioli. This airy bread is packed with spices, and doesn't require any buttering. The aioli was so deliciously tangy, I would've liked some plain crusty bread to scoop it up. The bread and aioli were the first hint that the kitchen had some wizardry in store for us.

All the appetizers were tempting, but my husband opted for the salt and pepper shrimp over creamy polenta. One bite of this dish, and it was clear why Friedman won the 2010 Mason Dixon Master Chef competition. Overall, his food is bold, textured, and at times, sublime. The Asian-inspired presentation consisted of two intertwined jumbo-sized shrimp, flash fried with chili sauce, over a cloud of pureed polenta. My husband said the shrimp emulated the buttery, tender texture of lobster meat, and the creamy polenta...I can’t imagine a more divine concoction. Used sparingly here, but to great effect. The dish was a vision of beauty to savor, but too good not to devour.

I ordered the duck confit nachos, which was a heaping plate of shredded duck folded into sharp cheddar on homemade nacho chips. The crispy golden chips were dotted with tender scallions and bits of chopped tomato--a large portion ideally shared. Though the nachos were tasty and filling, they did not have the star power of the shrimp.

For his entree, my husband chose the rockfish over grilled Israeli couscous that  was spiced with basil and walnut pesto. Here’s another dish that elicited wows—the rockfish was lightly grilled and flakey, the summer squash succulent, but the flavor of the pesto was what impressed us. The basil mixed into the couscous was coarsely chopped, and its fresh greenness held undertones of heat (we learned from our knowledgeable server that it was Asian Sriracha sauce). I could’ve eaten a bowl of that couscous pesto--it was beyond compare.

I ordered Fuzu for my entrée. It was a signature dish at Bezu, and is influenced by the quintessential ingredients found in Pad Thai. Fuzu arrives with two silver chopsticks inserted artistically into a caramel concoction of rice noodles, bean sprouts, egg, chicken and baby shrimp. Dotted with black sesame seeds and topped with crispy shallots and scallions, the dish is flavored with a gingery, spicy soy sauce. At first bite, it’s a blast of varied textures--the combination of wriggly rice noodles and crispy slices of scallion is enchanting. The big chunks of chicken and egg are less thrilling, and I didn’t find any of the promised scallops and only two shrimp. Unfortunately, as I dug into the cooling dish, it became a bit oily. It still tasted delicious, but was too heavy for the oppressive summer heat.

Luckily, we ended our meal with a cooling passionfruit sorbet. Smooth and crystalline, the homemade sorbet captured the subtly exotic flavor of this tropical fruit, and arrived with fresh blueberries, blackberries and raspberries. Friedman is known for using organic, farm-to-table ingredients. We also had the lip smacking vanilla bean-honey cheesecake.  Lighter than traditional cheesecake, it’s made with ricotta cheese over a crumbled graham cracker crust with swirls of lavender simple syrup and an edible orchid--as fine looking as it was delicious. The vanilla bean added complexity to this cheesecake. Although quite full, we ate every bite.

The décor of Newton’s Table is casually elegant. The room is decorated in sapphire and metallic gold and silver. There’s a soothing, lime-colored waterfall, and gauzy drapes. The servers remove every utensil and dish between each course, making it upscale for your typical evening out in Bethesda. Newton’s Table is on par with Bethesda’s other casual fine dining establishments like Persimmon and Bistro Provence. I was happy to see that no one brought young children here. It’s an elegant date night or meeting place for foodies to sample haute cuisine. Newton’s Table is also a perfect place to celebrate special occasions.

The bar, however, offers a casual way to try a few small plates and drink clever cocktails with your BFF. They charge happy hour prices all night for ladies on Wednesdays. The restaurant is open for lunch, but the prices aren’t lower for many of the same dishes.

I suspect Bethesda will embrace Friedman’s newest creation, and Newton’s Table will show critics and other restaurateurs that Bethesda diners support imaginative chefs. Prepare to be amazed!

To make a reservation, call (301) 718-0550.