Jamaica Plain's El Oriental de Cuba

Perhaps more than some of Jamaica Plain’s other Latin restaurants, earnestly accommodates vegetarian patrons. The Hyde Square eatery, a local landmark since 1994, goes beyond the basics of rice and beans and offers a wide variety of delicious dishes for non-meat eaters.

For appetizers, there’s Mofongo, Fried Yuca, Garden Salad and Cheese Empanadas. Made with mashed green plantains and plenty of garlic, Mofongo ($7.95) is a dense and starchy starter that won’t leave room for much else. Though normally prepared with pork rinds, or chicharrones, our friendly server Angie obligingly honored our request to prepare the Mofongo sin carne.

Fried Yuca ($2.95) was perfectly fried, not at all greasy, and crisp. Cut like French fries and served with an appetizing dipping sauce, the heaping mound of the crunchy root vegetable, which is also known as cassava or manioc, had  a firmer texture than potatoes that could almost be described as woody.

The Garden Salad ($6.95) consists of iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, onions, carrots, and oddly enough, pickles. Since most entrees come with a side of the same salad, you’ll probably want to bypass this, and instead try the Cheese Empanada. Priced at only $1.50, the empanada was a crescent of flaky pastry with just the right amount of melted cheese inside. 

Vegetarians might also consider trying one of the side orders, like Tostones (fried green plantains), or Maduros (fried ripe plantains), (both $2.95), as an appetizer, but plan ahead since both are available as accompaniments to most entrees.

Certainly one of the sources of well-deserved fame is its legendary Cuban sandwiches that are the restaurant’s specialty. Though you might be scoffed at in Havana or Miami for ordering one without the roast pork, here in our comfortably countercultural and multicultural community, the smiling staff at El Oriental won’t raise an eyebrow when you order the Vegetarian Cuban Sandwich ($6.95). Made to order, the veggie cuban entails your choice of lettuce, tomatoes, onions, pickles, mayo, mustard and Swiss cheese served on hot-pressed Cuban bread. How great that vegetarians can also enjoy a taste of this classic Cuban fare!

also offers a Vegetarian Special ($8.95) that is a more than filling portion of rice, beans, salad and either green or ripe plantains. Diners can also choose from red or black beans, and either white or yellow rice. Each component of the dish was impeccably fresh, appetizing, and well-prepared.

The restaurant carves out some new territory with its less familiar Torre de Vegetales, or vegetable Tower, ($13.95), a dish that I have never encountered elsewhere. The tower is a complete dinner that is served with rice, beans, plantains or salad. The artfully and vertically arranged selection of grilled veggies, served in a thin but tasty tomato-based sauce, included eggplant, summer squash, red and green peppers, tomatoes and onions. The dish is a fresh taste of summer that is available year-round.

doesn’t have a liquor license, however you can wash down your dinner or lunch at the congenial, clean and reasonably priced restaurant with one of its many specialty beverages. Freshly-made Tropical Shakes ($3) are available in a variety of fruit flavors including papaya, mango, banana, pineapple and others. There’s also a selection of soft drinks, tropical sodas, juices, nectars and hot beverages like espresso or café con leche. 

My dining companion and I didn’t even have room for one of the restaurant's robust coffees, much less for dessert. Those among you with a sweet tooth can sample some of delectable-sounding desserts, like Flan ($2.50),Guava Shell with Cream Cheese ($2.95) or Tres Leches ($4), and let us know if they are as good as everything else that we tried.

¡Que rico! 

Located at 416 Centre Street, (617-524-6464) is open Monday – Thursday from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.