Restaurant Review: Ceres Bistro at the Beechwood Hotel

Ceres Bistro at the Beechwood Hotel

• 363 Plantation St.
• Worcester
• 508-754-2000

“Restaurants at hotels are poor.” It is a ‘rule’ we see in practice time after time. While often providing a welcome meal to a weary traveler, they fail at fulfilling as a destination.

So we were surprised/encouraged when a dinner companion suggested Ceres Bistro at the Beechwood Hotel in Worcester. Our friend lives in Worcester and suggested Ceres is different. We’d heard good things about the restaurant and looked forward to dinner.

Because the Beechwood Hotel was hosting a Worcester Chamber of Commerce event, we had to park in a designated neighboring building’s parking lot and get shuttled to the hotel. “Will you be gone by 9?” was a common question; the shuttle stops running at 9:15 p.m. and diners will be stranded. Hmmm, not a nice greeting for a dinner party.

The shuttle bus drops you off at the hotel, even though the driver is told you are going to Ceres. We were befuddled on how to gain access to the restaurant.…while there is some high signage, there are two adjacent sets of doors for entry. What is a diner to do?

Upon gaining entry, you enter a large lobby and are drawn to the lighted bar area. The host (the restaurant GM) and hostess (restaurant assistant GM) are busy in high level conversation and too busy to greet. Hmmm, not a nice greeting for a dinner party.

Who cares? We breeze by them to meet with our dinner companion. The bar is well lit, with an illuminated counter top. Adult beverages are served in pleasant heavy rocks glasses.

We opt to dine in the energetic bar rather than the empty restaurant. We find it rather odd each table is graced with plastic flowers; we would opt for nothing or the real deal.

This is when we discover a troubling situation. The help is wound tight. The restaurant GM “Bismarck” visited our table to ask if we were going to order. Hmmm, not a nice greeting for a dinner party. 

Our server, someone who seemed genuine, was tight because the GM was hovering. What is this about?

The $9 mussels sauté appetizer was redeeming. Yet, someone seemed to forget to toss the $11 Ceres Salad (local greens, roasted peppers, beets, tomato, cucumber, candied walnut, and sherry vinaigrette), instead presenting little piles of each in a dull presentation (although we enjoyed the beets.)

We then waited. And waited. And waited. We asked the server if the delay was due to the Chamber of Commerce meeting and were assured there was no relationship. She couldn’t explain the delay either. At this point, the restaurant GM seemed preoccupied studying the menu…anything to avoid eye contact.

We each had $27 grilled swordfish and were pleased the swordfish was moist after the lengthy delay.  The accompanying vegetables were conversely over cooked.

We opted to pass on the varied yet safe desert menu.

At this point, our dinner companion commented he thought Ceres was not doing as well since the Niche Hospitality Group (Bocado, the Citizen, and Mezcal) ceased managing the restaurant. We felt badly that he was back peddling on the recommendation and appreciated he recognized the place was not up to par.

Thankfully, he got to Ceres early enough to drive us back to the car. It was 9:16 and the shuttle bus had stopped running.

Ceres Bistro gets a

       Red Light – Save your time and money

About the RAG scale:

       Green Light – Go and enjoy

       Amber Light – Use caution

       Red Light – Save your time and money

The Author

Gary Kelley has lived in Westborough since 1994. His reviews are what he would tell friends, and are not an academic analysis.