Brick Candy Store Blends New Trends With Sweet Memories

BRICK, NJ — When you set foot inside the door at Van Holten's Chocolates on Route 88, you're greeted by the sight of every possible permutation of chocolate.

Chocolate rum balls. Chocolate lollipops. Chocolate-covered pretzels and nuts. At the back, there's a fudge counter, with the price per pound on a sign hanging overhead.

Chocolates have been the store's signature offering for more than 100 years, back to when Robert Meyer's grandfather and great uncle started selling homemade candy from their luncheonette in Jersey City in 1904.

The Meyers sold the chocolate business along the way, to the Van Holtens, but the Meyers eventually bought it back.

"But we kept the Van Holten's name," Bob Meyer said.

The shop honors the candy shops of the past. There's bins with nostalgic candy like wax bottles, bubble gum and candy cigarettes, and Turkish taffy. There's jellybeans and saltwater taffy. There's licorice wheels and licorice all-sorts (with the layers of white sugary goodness on licorice bites).

Meyer also takes on the trends of the present. In the run-up to Halloween, the shop has chocolate pops and flat chocolate items in a variety of shapes from Jack-o-lanterns to scarecrows to ghosts. There's Frankenstein Peeps and black cat Peeps and skull Peeps. Buy a whole package of them, or a package of two that have been dipped in chocolate.

Chocolate molds and chocolate-dipped items are everywhere. There's chocolate cornucopias for Thanksgiving on display already, and all kinds of molded items that aren't specific to Halloween. Tell Mom you love her with a chocolate bar that says "Mom," or pick up a basketball-themed package for your favorite hoop star.

"We find different ways to satisfy their urge for something sweet," he said.

That includes offering candies that are popular in other areas and other countries. Jelly fruit slices are in a case close to the register, and German marzipan is available by the piece or in small gift boxes.

Truffles sit in rows behind glass near the register at the front of the store, in all kinds of flavors.

At the back of the store, the fudge counter is loaded with all the favorites, including chocolate with walnuts or pecans. But there's mouth-watering strawberry cheesecake and pumpkin fudge beckoning from behind the glass nearby, too.

Meyer has adapted to all the protocols needed for safety as a result of the pandemic, too. Candies are wrapped or otherwise packaged, even the fudge, which he's portioned into quarter-pound pieces. Items that are not individually wrapped, such as the rum balls and the pecan turtles, are behind glass, handled with gloved hands and wrapped in wax paper bags.

His sweet offerings stay up with the times as well. If you like chocolate-covered Oreos, he has them. Hot cocoa bombs, which became very popular during the pandemic, are in stock. He makes his own, right down to the hot cocoa mix inside.

There's 60 flavors of gourmet popcorn, including chipotle pineapple and dill pickle. There's vegan offerings and gluten-free and sugar-free treats as well.

Another trend that he's picked up: chocolate-covered bacon.

"It's one of the most popular items at the shop on the boardwalk," said Ray, who handles customers out front while Bob is pouring chocolate into molds in the back.

But he's isn't just dipping bacon in chocolate. You can get pork roll or Slim Jims that have been coated in chocolate as well.

"I just created a Rice Krispies treat dipped in caramel," Bob said.

There are three Van Holten's stores in Ocean County. In addition to the Brick shop, which had been on Mantoloking Road from 1991 until the early 2000s, there's Van Holten's Sweet Shop in Seaside Heights, and Van Holten's Home Made in the Lacey Mall in Forked River, which is owned by Bob's brother.

"Candy is an art form and a delicacy that brings out feelings and memories," it says on the Van Holten's website, where you can order online for curbside pickup or shipping. "We strive to enhance your experience as well as stimulate your inner memories of family and tradition."

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