New Restaurant Feels Good Vibes in Old Inde Blue Location

The last time someone had their first meal at 618 Collings Avenue, it was the start of a long-term relationship—between devoted new customer and the acclaimed Indian cuisine of Inde Blue.

Acclaim for Inde Blue's fare kept growing, so much that owners left the 34-table location and , into a space large enough for 50 additional tables.

Since the day it was vacated, Inde Blue's original location at 618 Haddon Avenue awaited an occupant whose culinary grace could match that of its predecessor.

That individual has finally arrived.

Philadelphia native, 33-year-old Joe Baldino, acknowledged that opening his Italian restaurant, Zeppoli, at 618 Collings Avenue brings with it a mighty large pair of shoes to fill. 

But his respect for the space where Inde Blue made its name, said Baldino, is advantageous.

"There's a great aura here," he said of occupying Inde Blue's former stomping grounds. "I'm blessed to be in a place that became so successful. I can't speak more highly of (Inde Blue Chef and Owner Rakesh Ramola). I told him I'm going to make him proud. And with all the good vibes in this place, I'm confident in making that promise."

And just as Inde Blue arrived in Collingswood with an uncommon cuisine, Baldino said Zeppoli's fare will diverge from that of a commonplace Italian restaurant.

"I think we're different from other Italian restaurants in Collingswood. We're bringing a new, soulful flavor to the borough," said Baldino. "The menu will feature specifically Sicilian cuisine, which is very similar to the 'Soul Food' that Southern food (connotes) in the United States. It's the same type of food in Sicily—not at all complicated (to prepare), but evokes that 'Soul Food' feel (for patrons)."

But Baldino said the originality behind Zeppoli's menu can be attributed to his own personal travels and experiences.

"At age 13 I got involved in the restaurant business as a busboy. I loved it immediately, but also knew right away that I had to get into the kitchen," said Baldino. "I loved the atmosphere of the kitchen; it felt like a party every night."

Later, armed with a Bachelor's degree from Temple University, Baldino took an internship at Vetri Ristorante in Philadelphia. But, given duties at the front of the house, the position didn't yet lead him into the kitchen.

"I moved to New York City after (attending) graduate school, and enrolled at French Culinary Institute in Manhattan," he said. "While there, I worked at a restaurant in the city, interning in the kitchen. When I returned to Philly, I held a job as a chef, then went back to Vetri to cook."

While his schooling in New York City prepared him in the art of French cuisine, Baldino felt an urge to get back to his roots.

"I'm a third-generation (Italian); my grandparents were both from Sicily," said Baldino. "So I went there, to Sicily, where I trained (in culinary arts) for three months. There, I discovered that Sicily had been conquered by so many different cultures, like the Greeks, the Moores. So Sicily's really the melting pot of the Meditteranean.

"Sicilian cuisine offers some really unique dishes because of (its exposure to) outside cultures, even cous cous. Training in Sicily was an eye-opening experience; I had been expecting spaghetti and tomato and cannoli, but it was totally opposite," he said.

These influences are present on Zeppoli's menu, and Baldino hosted an open house Thursday evening to let family and friends sample Sicilian 'Soul Food' for themselves.

Tortellini drizzled in warm pesto, lemon-infused risotto, and sausage bedded in broccoli rabe filled the restaurant. Guests washed down each plate, clinking their stemmed red wine glasses while a string ensemble plucked a Meditteranean symphony in the corner.

Well-wishers were everywhere.

"I guess (Joe) got his gift from my mother and father, who owned a bar and grill in South Philly," said Baldino's mother, Regina. "And I always cooked for my children. But that's the difference between me and my son: I'm more old-fashioned (in my cooking), I do what my mother did. He's got a technique and does things with true finesse.

"His opening his first restaurant makes me feel so proud," continued Regina. "Because he's a better cook than I am—and he doesn't even realize it."

An untruth, according to Baldino, who didn't so much as blink before citing his life's greatest culinary influences.

"My greatest influences are my mom and her two sisters," he said. "What I do is founded by skills my mom has taught me: using fresh ingredients, good olive oil, sea salts. There'll be nothing smothered in tomato sauce here. I'm thankful every day my mom was my teacher. I want to use those skills, and be happy making other people happy."

Baldino plans to officially open doors to the public sometime during the week of August 15. The only things left to do? Order and prep food.

Zeppoli seats 35, including two outdoor tables facing Collings Avenue, both of which seat four.

Hours of operation will run from 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. every day of the week except on Tuesdays, when the restaurant will be closed.

"I've been looking to open my own restaurant for the past three years, but nothing ever came up," said Baldino. "Then I found this place, and I knew I could turn it into a nice, intimate, romantic spot. My cousin painted the whole interior, and made the curtains. My family has helped with everything. My blood, sweat and tears are in this place."