Heights Eater: Frying Zeppoles, the Smell of Summer

The smell is unmistakable.

Strolling down the boardwalk, through a local street fair, or, if you are very lucky, grandma’s kitchen on a summer night, you will encounter the sweet smell of freshly frying dough that will soon be topped with a bit of powdered sugar, creating one of the most simple yet irresistible summer desserts.

Zeppole stands are a summertime tradition isolated to Jersey and New York; states with deep rooted Italian heritage. Elsewhere you may find the beloved funnel cake, but make no mistake Eater readers, the funnel cake is merely an imposter, as locals will tell you.

Essentially zeppole are nothing more than 2-3 inch deep fried dough balls in the family with fritters and doughnuts. They are also referred to as Saint Joseph Cake, and they can be filled with custard or jelly. The history of the dessert is inconsistent, but they are widely thought to have originated in Sicily and spread throughout Italy and were traditionally prepared during celebrations, much like today’s tradition of eating zeppole at a feast.

This week Eater had the privilege of speaking with 86 year old local resident Dorothy De Luca. The active, vibrant grandmother of six reflected fondly as she recounted how her mother used to drop a spoonful of dough into hot oil on a cool summer night when De Luca was a child. She has continued this tradition with her family, and now, her children’s families.

“No trip to grandma’s house is complete without some zeppole, especially in the summer. These kids don’t know how lucky they are. My recipe is the best,” De Luca quipped.

She explains that the secret is actually in the oil itself. In order to create the perfect confection the oil has to be hot enough, but not too hot or the outside will brown too quickly leaving the inside still doughy. So what is the magic temperature you might ask? In typical Italian grandmother style, De Luca provided the traditional helpful response. “It’s just in the middle. You will know.” 

Even though she is not able to provide a precise temperature for frying, De Luca was nice enough to share her family zeppole recipe with Eater readers.

Grandma De Luca’s Homemade Zeppole

Ingredients

• 3 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 package dry yeast
• 1 cup warm water
• 3 eggs
• 4 cups corn oil, 1 cup olive oil, (for frying)
• Powdered sugar, for dusting

Instructions:

• Dissolve the yeast in warm water
• Combine and mix the flour, salt, yeast, and water in a large bowl.  Be sure not to overwork the dough or your zeppole will be tough
• Allow the dough to rest and rise for 2-3 hours; the dough should be soft to the touch 
• In a large pot or deep fryer, heat your oil to 350ºF  (an estimate based on some research)
• Spoon golf ball sized balls of dough into the oil, being careful not to overload the pot, which would cause the temperature to drop
• Turn to cook evenly
• Remove when they are golden brown, place on a paper towel
• Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve immediately