Move Over Matzo Ball Soup

Okay, I admit it: I had never eaten matzo ball soup before I agreed to review Eppes Essen, the landmark deli.  I know, that's a little embarrassing to say. Still, visions of the soup and pastrami danced in my head and I was excited for the experience when I went to the restaurant one recent day.  I brought along a friend who's well versed in Jewish delis and food, having grown-up eating plenty of matzo ball soup. 

But before we could get to the soup and sandwiches, there were pickles and coleslaw that were served to us in a bowl as soon as we were seated in a comfortable booth.  It all looked delicious, but I decided to wait for our meal to arrive before devouring the coleslaw.

As for the meal, perhaps the toughest part was deciding what to order off the extensive menu, which is divided into breakfast, lunch and dinner items with items like blintzes, knishes, sandwiches, salads, burgers and such.  I suppose if I needed a suggestion, I could have asked the sage advice of any of the number of senior citizens, who looked like they were regulars at the place.  Comforting thought.

We focused on the lunch part and started with chopped liver with tomato, onion and crisps for $9.95. When it arrived, we started by spreading the mouse-like chopped liver onto a mini crispy toast. The texture was smooth yet substantial —although I didn't taste any onions, I was looking forward to that.  I don't like raw onions and didn't want to add any on top. I enjoyed the chopped liver; it had a nice balance of sweet and savory.  But I did find myself sprinkling extra salt, for taste.

Next was the long anticipated matzo ball soup.

An overflowing bowl filled with two matzo balls and lots of thin noodles swimming in chicken broth was placed before me. The broth was flavorful, but not what I was expecting. I had envisioned a rich broth cooked for hours with lots of vegetables and herbs like dill.  Instead, it was light in color and taste and similar, I thought, to "out of a box" chicken broth.

Also, there were too many noodles, which took away from the matzo balls. My friend explained the matzo ball texture is a bit mealy. They tasted fine to me but the wheels in my head began to turn  and I started thinking of how I would make this soup at home.  My friend thought the soup was just okay, too.

Next, we tried a lean pastrami sandwich on soft rye.  The soft bread was delicious and covered with loads of spicy mustard and layered with mounds of sliced pastrami. I devoured half the sandwich and the coleslaw on the side, which was outstanding. I could have made a whole meal out of the coleslaw. The fresh cabbage and carrots were crunchy and just the right consistency.  There was a good sweet and tangy balance.

My clear favorite was the pastrami sandwich, the best part of the meal. I will definitely go back for it again.  Perhaps most encouraging from my visit is that I have bought matzo meal and am learning how to make the soup.  

Anyone have any good recipes?

* This story originally appeared on February 5.  Reprinted in honor of Eppes Essen being named a runner-up in NJ Monthly "Best of Jersey" Deli Sandwich/Kosher-Style  category for 2010.