La Campagna: Italian Dining with a Twist

My only mistake Saturday night was calling La Campagna to ask for a 7 p.m. reservation at 4:30. Don’t dare wait so long if you want one of the prime seating times.

The host nicely informed me that the only remaining reservations were at 5:30 and 9:30 p/m. I chose the 5:30, giving me just less than an hour to get ready, run out the door and find a parking spot.

By the time I met my friends Debbie and Katie at the restaurant, located at 194 Essex St., we had missed our slot by about 15 minutes. No worries, the hostess told us, but we would have to be done by 7:30, when the table was next reserved.

Once seated, the service was constant, if not a bit overbearing. Our wine glasses were never empty, fresh silverware and plates were provided for each course and the waiter always offered his opinion and recommendations.  Remember to bring a bottle of wine along to complement this fine “New Italian” cuisine—La Campagna is B.Y.O.B.

I imagine the intimate atmosphere and classic European decor could make for a romantic date night, but this weekend the small space was full of laughter and stories as everyone seemed to be catching up with old friends. It was hard not to feel like you were eavesdropping on neighboring tables.

The menu offers a range of appetizers, salads, chicken, veal and seafood dishes, many served over pasta. There are daily specials. Reading it all is a bit overwhelming, as Chef Joe Cetrulo has added a twist to every classic dish. It speaks to his experimental nature. He travels through Italy and France each year, learning new cooking tricks and techniques along the way.

After starting with a soft bread and fresh bruschetta, which is complimentary when you order an appetizer and entrée, we moved on to the recommended appetizer: Portobello mushroom topped with an herb and nut crust. I am grateful to our server for suggesting this dish. It is made to share. A few bites are just enough to savor the flavor without filling up before your main course.

For our entrees, Debbie chose the Filet of Salmon, also with a nut crust. I was a bit confused when the server told her “Salmon is just salmon, doesn’t matter where you order it" and tried to sway her towards other choices. Turns out he was wrong. She said it was one of the better salmon dishes she has tried.

Katie opted for the cod. It was another mouth-watering choice, with tender wild cod covered with a Pignoli nut crust and a slightly sweet brown sauce.

I was having a hard time deciding between two dishes, so the waiter said he would surprise me. He brought out Spaghettini Parioli in a “slighty spicy marinara” sauce with lobster, shrimp and scallops. The seafood was cooked just right, though there wasn’t much of it. The sauce left something to be desired. It was missing any hint of spice.

After enjoying every bite of their dishes, my friends and I could not resist ordering dessert. We topped our meal off with a superb Caramelized Apple Tart served with vanilla ice cream. Needless to say, we thoroughly enjoyed this rich, flaky dish.

La Campagna is a 2008 winner of the Zagat Survey Award of Distinction for its fresh take on Italian classics.

The bill adds up quickly with entrees between $17.95 and $27.95 and appetizers ranging from $8.95-$12.95.  Expect to spend about $75-$100 on dinner for two. There are smaller lunch portions available, and fees for sharing plates or ordering appetizers as entrees. There is no corking fee for wine.

The small setting is often host to private parties, such as baptisms and bridal showers, for which the chef creates a personal menu.

If you’re looking for classic, hearty Italian plates that you know and love, I wouldn’t recommend making a reservation at LaCampagna. But anyone searching for a new way to enjoy those old favorites will be impressed with this cozy Italian restaurant.