Semolina Lives Up to Reputation

At Semolina, the décor is strikingly low-key in comparison with the top-notch service and delectable dishes.

Paintings of Italy line the stucco walls of the small dining room, which seats about 40 people. On a Wednesday evening, only one table sat empty as families and groups of friends young and old crowded the space. In the warmer months, the restaurant can accommodate an additional 40 diners in the outside patio area.

I was greeted at the door with a "buon giorno" from owner and executive chef Joseph Catalano. He escorted me to the dining room and chatted with me as I waited for my parents to arrive. Long before glancing at a menu, I knew I was in for an enjoyable evening.

The menu speaks to Catalano's years of experience in kitchens around the area and in Manhattan. It offers a wide range of Italian dishes that incorporate all the traditional Tuscan flavors with a few twists.

To start the meal, you choose between an entire page appetizers and fresh salads, complemented by warm loaf of Italian bread that is definitely just out of the oven. There’s a daily selection of antipasti (three for $9.95 or six for $19.95); Calamari Fritti ($10.95); Fetunta (Tuscan Garlic Bread, $5.95); Eggplant Parmiggiana ($8.95); Vongole Posillipo (Little Neck Clams served in homemade white wine sauce, $11.95); and many more.

Moving on to the entrees, there are more than a dozen pasta, fish, chicken and veal dishes.  Some of the plates that caught my attention were the Rossa (Rigatoni with Prosciutto, Peas & Gorgonzola Cheese in a Vodka Sauce, $15.95); Gamberi Ripieni (Grilled Shrimp stuffed with Crabmeat, served with sautéed Mixed Vegetables, Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Scampi Sauce, $22.95); Vitello Gorgonzola (Tender pieces of Veal Scallopine with Gorgonzola Cheese, Port Wine Demi-glace served with Mashed Potatoes & Julienne Vegetables, $21.95).

I had the Gamberi Ripieni. I was disappointed by the crabmeat stuffing, but the sauce was to die for and the shrimp were tender and juicy. The stuffing was too heavy on the breading, definitely needed more crab. The grilled vegetables are more than enough to complete the plate, but Catalano also includes his signature garlic mashed potatoes.

There are also Italian classics like Veal or Chicken Marsala, Parmiggiana or Francese. My dad had the Veal Marsala and enjoyed every bite, including the pile of julienned vegetables and mashed potatoes served alongside the thinly-sliced, tender veal.

Looking for a seafood sampling? Go for the Zuppe di Pesce: Spaghetti tossed with Baby Clams, Mussels, Calamari, Shrimp & Fish of the Day in a Light Tomato Fume, $23.95. Or try one of the daily specials, almost all of which are seafood plates.

Catalano prepares everything to taste. Not a fan of particular ingredients? That’s not a problem at Semolina. He will substitute a sauce or other ingredients and sides to your liking. He did this for my mom with the filet of sole, using a savory white wine and butter sauce in place of the sun-dried tomato marinara. She was reluctant to share even a bite—it was that delicious. But beware, the sauce was incredibly salty. I couldn't handle more than a couple of bites.

Catalano came out of the kitchen for a bit to mingle with the crowd, explaining how he prepares certain sauces, chatting about the economy, catching up with the regulars and asking about their grandchildren.

He overheard me asking our waiter what sauce my shrimp had come with and he stopped by to tell me the key ingredients. He explained that the slight hint of basil gives the scampi a unique flavor, then went through all the ingredients of the white wine sauce that he prepared for my mom’s filet of sole. An incredibly friendly, jovial chef, Catalano is clearly loved by his loyal customers.

We topped the meal off with a light apple tart, served with strawberries and cinnamon ice cream. I don’t know that I have ever seen apple slices so thin or a pastry so flaky. Each bite literally melted in my mouth. Actually, it more than melted – it practically disintegrated on contact.

Semolina is a great place for Tuscan classics, especially seafood dishes. Expect to spend about $80-100 on dinner for two if ordering appetizers and desserts. It’s B.Y.O., so don’t forget to bring your favorite bottle of wine to help highlight already masterfully-flavored dishes.