Westfield Meets Soho at 32 Church Street

Named after its street address in the space that was formerly Taro, 32 Church Creative Cooking opened its doors earlier this year with an eclectic line-up of Italian, southwestern, and bistro dishes—many of which are pulled from the menus of its sister restaurants (Mojave Grill, Isabella's American Bistro, and Theresa's Restaurant) located in Westfield. And, much like its siblings, the newbie delivers solid, reliable fare.

If you aren't sure what you're in the mood for, chances are you'll find it at 32 Church. Contributions from Mojave Grill include the BBQ'D Baby Back Ribs ($10.95), a blackened chicken quesadilla ($8.95), and a roasted pear salad ($11.95) starter, as well as the aptly named Mojave Lime Braised Pork ($21.95), pulled chicken enchilada ($19.95), and the pan seared yellow fin tuna ($24.95) entrees.

Isabella's American Bistro influences are found in the classic mac and cheese ($9.95), Isabella's bacon and cheddar stuffed meatloaf ($19.95), and a variety of simple grills ($16.95-$21.95).

Not to be left out, Theresa's Restaurant lends a few of its most popular Italian dishes as well, such as the eggplant pancake ($9.95), Theresa's Asiago crusted chicken ($21.95), and several of its fresh, homemade pastas, including tagliatelle with mushrooms ($18.95) and casarecce with broccoli and chicken ($18.95).

Featuring outdoor seating, open air dining in the front of the house (weather permitting), a partially open kitchen, and a massively high ceiling, 32 Church's sleek, modern "Soho" décor is indeed inviting. Its spacial minimalism offers an interesting contrast to the colorful menu, which at first glance seems to be somewhat of a grab bag of Westfield's greatest hits—yet ultimately hangs together surprisingly well.

The beef carpaccio appetizer ($13.95) was a generous serving of earthy crimini mushrooms that softened the arugula's peppery bite, and ended with a sharp/luscious flavor duo of parmesan and white truffle oil. With all that said, the overabundance of salad masked the thinly sliced, delicate beef. One could easily make a meal of this starter, although it would be more of a salad than a carpaccio.

Equally sound but not particularly inspired was the spiced yellow fin tuna ceviche ($12.95), which was served molded, tartar-style topped with frisee over a pasilla soy jus. The ceviche's bright citrus, scallions, ginger, avocado, and cucumber accents were refreshing complements to the tuna.

More interesting was the BYO's pecan and five spice-crusted salmon ($22.95), which was accompanied by a rather rough slaw and side of mashed potatoes. The fish was lovely in texture and flavor—the five spices being rosemary, oregano, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. The crunchy exterior paired with the velvety smoothness of the salmon well-executed.

Without a doubt, one of 32 Church's greatest strengths is its homemade pastas. The gemelli with sweet fennel sausage ($18.95) was both decadent and rustic, and I could eat several bowls of the twisted noodles in its sun-dried tomato cream sauce and still ask for more. The simple dish delivers across the board and then some.

If you have room left, which is not necessarily a given considering the restaurant's generous plating, desserts range from the banana caramel bread pudding to the flourless chocolate cake to a vanilla bean crème brulee ($6.95 each).

As much as I found the meal enjoyable, the establishment does have a few drawbacks worth mentioning: the place is hopping from Thursday through the weekend and with its no-reservation policy, securing a table can be difficult during prime dining hours; the acoustics are dreadful and the noise level is off the charts making any conversation—much less quiet conversation—tricky; and the service leaves a lot to be desired. Water glasses were never refilled, and once the food hit the table, the wait staff disappeared.

Similarly, I wondered whether "Creative Cooking" referred to 32 Church Creative Cooking's menu make-up rather than a reflection of truly inspired, unique dishes. Regardless, the tables are packed and diners walk away sated and pleased. 32 Church has managed to bring some of Westfield's most popular dishes and a hip, new setting to Montclair. I have no doubt that it will soon become a town fixture and a solid dining choice when you're not sure what you're in the mood to eat.

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32 Church Creative Cooking

32 Church Street, Montclair

(973) 746-3232

Hours of Operation:

Lunch, Tuesday through Saturday, 11:30 am-2:30 pm

Lunch, Sunday, 11:30 am-5 pm

Dinner, Tuesday and Wednesday, 5-9 pm

Dinner, Thursday, 5-9:30 pm

Dinner, Friday and Saturday, 5-10 pm

Closed Monday.

BYO. Private dining available.

All major credit cards accepted.